|
climbchickky
May 26, 2002, 2:00 AM
Post #1 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 9, 2002
Posts: 15
|
i was just wondering how long you usually wait to lead outdoors(sport). i toprope in the gym and i'm going outside soon.
thanx
|
|
|
|
|
fingerjam
May 26, 2002, 2:49 AM
Post #2 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 131
|
I started leading outdoors after learning to lead in a gym. You should first find some easy top ropes outside, then move on to leading out side. Also...if you dont know how to top off...you gotta learn that too, if you need to know how, just ask me.
|
|
|
|
|
stevematthys
May 26, 2002, 2:50 AM
Post #3 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
|
i learned to lead in the gym before i went outdoors
|
|
|
|
|
rckfreek
May 26, 2002, 3:15 AM
Post #4 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2002
Posts: 149
|
I might just be off my rocker but forget the indoors.....i have climbed in a gym around 4 times just cause the weather was bad and i needed to keep my triaining routeine up. But i have been climbing for about 1 year minus about 6 months in there that i didn't climb at all, and i am sport leading up to 5.10a's (outside).
What is the moral of the story.......GET OUT DOORS!!!!!!
- Rock Freek -
|
|
|
|
|
biff
May 26, 2002, 4:19 AM
Post #5 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2001
Posts: 851
|
I too started leading indoors. It is a much more controlled environment. I started leading on overhanging plastic wall so falls were soft.
I had climbed top rope 2 days in the gym before I started leading. I climbed outdoors once before I started leading outside. My first outdoor lead was a 5.10D
|
|
|
|
|
cragman
May 26, 2002, 4:27 AM
Post #6 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2002
Posts: 65
|
I am leading after 4 months of climbing, kinda forced into it but still. I haven't lead anything greater than a 5.9 yet
|
|
|
|
|
topher
May 28, 2002, 5:05 AM
Post #7 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477
|
i dont want to sound like an ass or any thing but leading sport is not big deal! Falling unless on slabes, and ramps doesnt hurt, yes there is more potential for injury but its not that bad, ive taken some 10-15 foot wippers and you barrely notcie any thing has happend. As for learning to lead inside, I didnt know that you could lead indoor walls, mind you ive only climb at 2 guys in my life both are small. i say get out side get some draws, and go. Of coures learn about back cliping and what not. once you get the feel of the sharp end and find out you like it, then go learn to place your own pro. once you take 5 falls (maybe less) on lead its not a big deal any more. well thats at least the way it was for me.
|
|
|
|
|
paintinhaler
May 28, 2002, 5:42 AM
Post #8 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2000
Posts: 715
|
I started outdoors, and started a year later sport leading outdoors. Rockclimbing is only rockclimbing if it's outdoors.
|
|
|
|
|
timpanogos
May 28, 2002, 6:01 AM
Post #9 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
|
Started Climbing about 2 months ago - been out about 8 times, top roped multiple routes between 5.6 and 5.9 each time. Today I lead my first 5.6 sport climb. I took a beginners course with the family, and went on the 8 days with a very experienced group (Wasatch Mountain Club) and did a way lot of reading, including Freedom of the Hills.
I'm hooked, ready to try those leads now - and that rack is starting to grow, REI 20% one item sale - got a set of nuts today. Trad is on the horizon.
P.S. I have been doing extreme scrambles and canyoneering form many years before getting into technical climbing in the last few months.
Added PS
[ This Message was edited by: timpanogos on 2002-05-27 23:17 ]
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
May 28, 2002, 6:15 AM
Post #10 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
If you can safely lead outdoors, I'd recommend doing it as soon as possible. I think that gym leading and outdoor leading are a whole different story.
Not only that, but the sooner you get a 'head' about you when leading, the better. I totally flipped out attempting my first 10a this weekend and it's because I've spent way too long top roping to be okay about doing things that might stretch my ability.
|
|
|
|
|
crackhabit
May 28, 2002, 7:03 AM
Post #11 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2002
Posts: 40
|
about gym climbing, dont ever confuse it with real rock. yeah, it is good for training, but rock is really different. get confortable on TR first. real rock does not have colored holds or tape to look for. get used to using whatever is there.
how long to wait. i waited many months but i would say that time is not the important thing. climb on TR with someone experienced but place pro like you were on lead. have that experienced person check each placement and coment on it so that you can learn. get used to setting every type of gear that you can find to see how it works. finally, start way b-low your level. the sharp end is much harder b/c you often spend a good amount of time placing gear properly and you have to make sure you have the endurance for it. once you are setting good gear then falling is not a big deal. leading is a mind game that, for most people, needs to be practiced.
good luck
|
|
|
|
|
tim
May 28, 2002, 7:48 AM
Post #12 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
I was an asshead. About 3 months after taking my anchors course, I got on what I thought was High Exposure at the Gunks. I had borrowed a set of cams (well, more like 3) from an apartment-mate (we all climbed that summer) and had bought a set of stoppers. Naturally that was enough to protect Hi E right? (wrong) Well, that was bad enough, but then I got confused and jumped on Directississima instead... long story short, I got lucky, didn't fall, placed some good nuts (not sure how) and basically was okay, but very scared. I took a lesson out in Yosemite later in the summer, learned a lot, and climbed a lot of 7's and 8's in New Hampshire and elsewhere, got comfortable leading and swinging leads, and it got a lot more fun. I was scared shitless near the top of the first pitch of Directississima though. That's not a good first lead
(went back and did it a year later with no problem whatsoever... common refrain.)
Anyways, I guess it's different if you're leading sport, if you fall, who cares, so long as your draws aren't horribly twisted and you aren't z-clipped. On gear it is a different story and I would suggest that kids just starting out on gear either take a lesson from a very experienced guide, hook up with an experienced partner, or both. I've been trying to get some of my Cali friends safely started doing trad routes (they want to be able to climb wherever, not just at sport areas) and I don't often have to think about all the stuff that's automatic for me, except when I'm climbing with someone else who is just starting. It's good for both parties -- they ask questions, and if I can't answer them immediately and properly, I realize that there could be a problem. ("what if a magic X actually bombs out?" well, no more magic X's from me... 2 slings)
I figure it's more important HOW you start leading (eg. under the auspices of someone who can keep you from getting dead) than when. But, again, this is from a mostly-trad climber, so YMMV.
|
|
|
|
|
rock-mnky
Deleted
May 28, 2002, 9:37 AM
Post #13 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I started Leading on a climb i did often
I felt better starting on something I knew
|
|
|
|
|
blindslap
May 29, 2002, 3:34 AM
Post #14 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 174
|
i top roped to a 5.8 - 5.9 grade, you could probably wait a little longer of less. as long as your ready to lead and you know what your doing go for it.
|
|
|
|
|
phil_nev
May 29, 2002, 4:01 AM
Post #15 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2001
Posts: 361
|
i started to lead in the gym after about 1 and a half months climbing. I was leading outdoors a month later.
|
|
|
|
|
ace-11
Deleted
May 29, 2002, 4:10 AM
Post #16 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I started leading after about a year or so of climbing in/outdoors. My first lead was on some EASY route (5.5 or something) outside. The route was super boring, but it was a good introduction to clipping into all the bolts and the anchors at the top. After this climb I soon started to lead higher and higher graded routes. Now I am consistantly leading 5.11's! Don't be afraid to fall while leading either, lead falls are the best!
Keep Crankin' and Extendin' JH
|
|
|
|
|
kerouac
May 29, 2002, 4:20 AM
Post #17 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 90
|
It's different for everyone of us. Some lead right from the start while others can TR for years before getting on the sharp end. The important thing to remember is to do it when you feel like YOU are ready. Don't let other climbers push you into leading. If you are interested, as you are, take a course or get a friend with experience to teach you what you need to know. Remember to climb safe and within your limits. I've seen climbers pushed into leading before they were ready and it completely turned them off. Have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
orestes1724
May 30, 2002, 4:04 PM
Post #18 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2001
Posts: 1414
|
i just started leading, once your climbing a solid rating i think you can start leading...real easy routes so you can practice...maybe you could even start with a top rope also just incase your scared of falling. once you get more comfortable with clipping in go for the harder stuff...just work your way up.
|
|
|
|
|
woodse
May 30, 2002, 4:46 PM
Post #19 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2001
Posts: 625
|
After I was comfortable climbing 5.9 and 5.10 I did my first sport lead, it was a 5.9+ with 4 bolts I think. Short and sweet. If I were you I would begin by leading routes that are one level below the level you comforatble climb at. By comfortably I mean a level at which take very little or no falls, nothing like being above your pro for the very first time!
woodsE
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
May 30, 2002, 5:15 PM
Post #20 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
i started climbing outside and waited aprox 1h. not that im mentally that strong, they just made me.
|
|
|
|
|
phlyfisher
May 30, 2002, 5:49 PM
Post #21 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 290
|
I took a course on how to clip bolts in a gym and then went outside. I warmed up on top rope and then thought it would be a good idea to lead on trad. I would not reccommend this for anyone. My five minute crash course on how to set cams was probably not adequate but I'm still alive. Next I was convinced to lead a harder sport route and took my first whipper. Thanks OSU mountain club.
Climb on climber
[ This Message was edited by: phlyfisher on 2002-05-30 10:50 ]
[ This Message was edited by: phlyfisher on 2002-05-30 10:50 ]
|
|
|
|
|
melonhead
May 30, 2002, 5:56 PM
Post #22 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 295
|
I didn't. My first climbing experiance was when I saw the rock. My partner and I headed right to the gear shop, bought a rope, harnesses and a set of nuts and had at it. The rest is history.........
|
|
|
|
|
spank_spank
May 30, 2002, 5:57 PM
Post #23 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 480
|
I went to a gym once. The weekend came up and I was out leading a 5.9. I only made it up 3 clips. And the guy I was climbing with has over 20+ years of climbing. So I felt safe climbing, because I trust his ability to teach me.
|
|
|
|
|
jman
May 30, 2002, 6:19 PM
Post #24 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 438
|
I started leading indoors before outside. I think learning how to lead indoors is good because it's a controlled environment and it gives you pratice on how to get properly clip into bolts and draws and learning how to give a good lead belay (which is very important). Don't get me wrong, I love leading outside. I would not feel comfortable getting a lead belay outside from someone who has no lead belay experience.
To properly answer your question I would have to say that IMHO you should feel comfortable climbing at least 5.9 or 5.10, without hanging on the rope, before leading in the great outdoors. Someone told me rule of thumb that people are usually capable of leading one degree less than they top rope. You're not going to find many sport routes that are less than 5.8.
|
|
|
|
|
duracellbunny
May 30, 2002, 6:26 PM
Post #25 of 32
(7115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2002
Posts: 255
|
I started climbing almost 5 month ago and I started leading 3 weeks ago. I never climbed indoors. My first leading was a 5.9 and my second leading was a 5.11.a.
I liked this very much and I think that leading is a big challenge. Be sure about all the moves and enjoy it!!!!!!
Climb safe and hard!!!
[ This Message was edited by: duracellbunny on 2002-05-30 11:28 ]
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
