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surfbum
Oct 27, 2004, 12:56 AM
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So I'm going to flog the dead horse again. Does anyone have any good endurance exercises for a hangboard? My dilema is as follows.....The local rock gym just closed....I have an 8 month old baby which makes it hard to get out to the Red River Gorge(which is only an hour away)....I've onsighted .12a but my current projects are around .12c. In the last week I've fallen from one project three times in a row within two feet of the anchors. It's not the power of the climbs that's whipping me, but the endurance. I've never tried specific training to boost my climbing ability/level. I need something extra to get over my endurance hurdle. Any advice would be helpful. Mahalos.
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andy_reagan
Oct 27, 2004, 1:04 AM
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I envision it as incredibly difficult to train endurance on any footless type of training device (hangboard, campus board, etc). I view the hangboard as more of a strength endurance trainer. Just hang for 60 seconds or so with minimal or no weight. You're probably going to have to get on some rock (or plastic) in order to truly be training endurance.
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irockclimbtoo
Oct 27, 2004, 3:06 AM
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ab
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collegekid
Oct 27, 2004, 4:19 AM
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I'm assuming your project route takes maybe a couple minutes to complete, at most, so...
Try doing an exercise routine on the hang board where you're hanging/locking off/pulling up for longer than it would take to complete the route, perhaps twice as long.
I'd suggest doing a sequence of one-armed hangs, lock offs, and frenchies, all on varying holds and positions, without ever putting a foot down. Since even hanging from two hands on jugs can get pretty pumpy, you might have to mess around to figure out which sequence of holds and exercises will get you pumped in your desired time frame. I have the metolius simulator, and when I wanted to get pumped, I'd just hang one-armed by the jugs; alternating hands every 10 seconds for a minute got me pretty pumped out. I imagine if you mixed frenchies with one-arm jug hangs, you could get a really good pump going.
Also, you should probably try doing some general fitness training (running, cycling, etc).
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kafish
Oct 27, 2004, 4:23 AM
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Scooter,
Its kyle man, I am not sure if this is about what you are looking for but this page helped me develop my hangboard routine i was using and i guess being on a hangboard as long as some of the routines require will help, i saw improvements for sure.
Hope to see you around soon.
heres the link
http://www.8a.nu/...s/hangboarding.shtml
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gremlin
Oct 27, 2004, 5:05 AM
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In reply to: FRENCHIES start hanging on something easy step 1: pull all the way up and lock off hold for 5 seconds step 2: come all the way back down then pull half way up and hold for 5 seconds step 3: all the way back down and hang for 5 seconds step 4: repeat don't do these the day before climbing you'll be burnt out
I was taught to do them this way(same thing, a bit harder I reckon):
1. go all the way up
2. all the way down
3. all the way back up and hold for 5 sec
4. all the way down
5. all the way up
6. back down to a 90 degree and hold for 5 sec
7. all the way down
8. all the way back up
9. down to a 120ish degree angle and hold for 5 seconds
10. and all the way down.
11. Repeat.
Don't do those the day before climbing or you'll be burnt out 8^)
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overlord
Oct 27, 2004, 7:51 AM
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well, you can train power endurance easy enough. just hang for 30-50 sec, then rest fro 40-60. do about 15-20 reps. should get you pumped good.
as for endurance, youd have to hang for something around 10mins. boring.
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get_ur_rox_off
Oct 29, 2004, 2:49 AM
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Awesome suggestions. The hangboarding article was great.
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bensnyder
Oct 30, 2004, 5:42 PM
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If you climb 5.12c i really doubt you need to be doing any straight arm hangs. That sort of this is great for newbie climbers, but after you can hang straigh armed for more than 2 or 3 minutes fresh, this exercise has little value (same thing with pullups - there is no reason you should have to be able to do 50 of them to be a great climber). For you i'd suggest working on a diffrent kind of forearm endurance - i think Eric Horst calls it GRRS or grip relax repeating sequence. The basic idea is to simulate the action of climbing with a hangboard by hanging straight armed and moving from hold to hold. Do this until your forearms are mildly pumped, rest, and then repeat until you are nice and burned out. This works forearm endurance well and is much less boring and uncomfortable than just hanging - you dont notice the burn as much becuse your mind is occupied...
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fjclimbsrocks
Oct 30, 2004, 7:48 PM
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Hey, my hangboard is over a doorframe, and when I work on endurance, I usually use a chair. I put the chair several feet in front of me, and when I grab the hangboard, I place my feet on the seat of the chair with my knees bent at about a 90% angle. I don't push down very hard at all with my feet, but I find that when my leggs and feet aren't just dangling, that I am able to hang longer, do more pullups/drops, etc. Depending on how much pressure you put on your feet, you can vary how long you are able to continue excercising. This technique allows me to stay on the hangboard for 3-4 minutes at a time, which is about as long as it would take you to climb a route in a gym, if not more.
~Jared
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