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vbhide
Dec 6, 2004, 10:49 AM
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Please be honest with this and post a reply:
1. How many pullups can you do unaided?
2. For how many minutes/seconds can you hang
a) With your arms stretched out?
b) With you elbows fully bent ?
c) With your elbows half-bent?
3. What grade do you climb?
This may give a good indication of the relation between power, endurance, and climbing grade!!
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overlord
Dec 6, 2004, 12:49 PM
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thats a hard one. i can probably do about 15-20 pullups.
as for hanging, do you mean from a bar??? if so of what diameter?? anyway, i have no idea about this valuses.
i climb aroud .11c/d or something. 6c+french.
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solo
Dec 6, 2004, 1:52 PM
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I do not think that the answers will give you any valuable information, but here we go:
1. not sure, maybe 12-15 pullups (on a good day :) )
2. cca. 40 second on a rotating bar (2 cm in diameter), arms stretched out
3. sport 5.12 something (up to 7b french)
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adnix
Dec 6, 2004, 2:18 PM
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Dunno.
Probably less than 20 pullups. Very hard to say since I have absolutely no motivation in neither of the activities. But when forced I've gotten to 20. Last time I stopped at 12 since it was enough for the best grade.
On a good day I redpoint French 7c (rougly 5.12d).
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keith_b00ne
Dec 6, 2004, 2:41 PM
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Depends on if it is a contest. Under normal circumstances I can only pull 10 pullups, but if it is a contest to failure I have pulled out around 30 before my armed died. I am currently a solid 5.9, most 5.10's, and every once and a while 5.11 climber.
I agree on the hanging. Never timed myself, but it does depend on what type of bar. Are shakeouts allowed?
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drfelatio
Dec 6, 2004, 11:11 PM
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I can probably do 15-20 pullups but as for hangtime I got no clue. Never really cared to try it. I'm just now getting into sport/trad but I'm toproping medium to hard 5.10s.
Now whether or not any of this "data" will actually tell you something conclusive is yet to be seen, but I have the distinct feeling that any "results" you see from all of this will be a bunch of hooey. Pullups don't work the legs at all so I don't see how you can make any conclusions from this at all--power, endurance, or grade-wise. Not to mention you didn't ask how much we weigh!
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chrisparedes
Dec 6, 2004, 11:24 PM
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I can do 15-20 pullups. and can hang with elbows bent for about 2 minutes. I haven't been climbing too long, but have sent several 5.7's, an .8, a couple of 9's and a .10c. I would say I'm a solid 5.8 climber.
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jbak
Dec 6, 2004, 11:48 PM
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In reply to: Please be honest with this and post a reply: 1. How many pullups can you do unaided? 2. For how many minutes/seconds can you hang a) With your arms stretched out? b) With you elbows fully bent ? c) With your elbows half-bent? 3. What grade do you climb? This may give a good indication of the relation between power, endurance, and climbing grade!!
The problem is, it does not address climbing efficiency. Half of learning to climb is learning efficiency and rest techniques. Two handed hang time would only be meaningful if one held on with two hands most of the time. And that is a basic violation of efficiency. And pullups have only a modest connection with power or endurance.
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kaczoron
Dec 7, 2004, 12:43 AM
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In reply to: vbhide wrote: Please be honest with this and post a reply: 1. How many pullups can you do unaided? 2. For how many minutes/seconds can you hang a) With your arms stretched out? b) With you elbows fully bent ? c) With your elbows half-bent? 3. What grade do you climb? This may give a good indication of the relation between power, endurance, and climbing grade!! The problem is, it does not address climbing efficiency. Half of learning to climb is learning efficiency and rest techniques. Two handed hang time would only be meaningful if one held on with two hands most of the time. And that is a basic violation of efficiency. And pullups have only a modest connection with power or endurance.
That's right, I can do maby 5 chins if I'm pushed and probly cannot hang too much longer than a minute either however I can redpoint 23 which I think is around mid 11's. I have a friend who can probly do 25-30 chins but only climbs 1 grade harder on the same terrain.
You can chin like a mad man all you want, but untill you build a bit of finger strenght and get you foot work and body position set you will not see much gain from just getting strong. Not that it won't help. I'm shure if I lost the gut and got fit enought no to get dizzy on the walk in I could climb a grade harder.
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paulraphael
Dec 8, 2004, 8:15 PM
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How often do you feel that a climbing move (even a crux move) resembles a pullup?
I don't mean this as a rhetorical question; I'm genuinely curious. Most people who have replied are climbing at a higher grade than me.
Personally, with the exception of a couple awkward moves at the gunks a couple of years ago (which I'm sure i had terrible form on), I've never done a pullup or anything like it while clmbing.
I almost think my arms have gotten weaker as I've gotten bettter .. they're almost always straight when I climb. Now I tend to have sore toes the next day, not sore arms.
If you do feel like you do pullups while climbing, please let us know what kind of routes you're talking about.
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melodicllama
Dec 8, 2004, 8:21 PM
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my arms are gettin' weaker too...it blows huh :cry: ...before anyone flames me yes i know they were never strong to begin with
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jt512
Dec 8, 2004, 8:21 PM
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In reply to: 3. What grade do you climb?
If you want to get interpretable resutls from your survey, you need to ask your questions unambiguously. For instance, what do you mean by "What grade do you climb?" Does you mean: What is your best sport on-sight? What is your best sport redpoint? What trad grade can you onsight with an 80% success rate? Etc.
-Jay
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 8, 2004, 9:07 PM
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Yeah, pull ups are meaningless. After 6 months of climbing I could do ten pull ups and was just breaking into .10s. A couple years later I can still pretty much only do 10 pull ups, but now I'm breaking into .12s. Hell, I don't even do pull ups. Just frenchies, because they're good for lock off strength.
There is a tendancy to over-emphasize raw strength and power in climbing. I love climbing steep routes as much as the next guy, but there was a couple of times last season where I was totally stymied by a .9 runout slab when I had red pointed .11's the day before. Embarrassing.
I think many would agree that the two most important strengths to have in climbing are the mind and the balls. Incidentally, they're also the hardest to develop. The first tens didn't requires super-human feats of strength. They required great big shiny cast iron balls, and razor-sharp focus.
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yazey
Dec 8, 2004, 9:31 PM
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Pull-ups with a bar are for wimps. Use a flat ledge, the smaller the better. The door jams offer the best ledge. Now do your pull-ups, and if you can get more than half your fingers on the board your cheating.
Step it up a notch.
Now hang, point your legs straight out in front of you. Knees straight. Hold that position and do your pull ups.
If you can't bring your legs up, and keep them staight, you have bigger problems with your core, and your arm strength doesnt' matter.
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saskclimber
Dec 8, 2004, 9:38 PM
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yeah, thats another point. you could have the strongest arms in the world but if you're core is weak as sh*t climbing is gonna be a helluva lot harder...
As for the doing them on the door jam part..sure that may be good for training crimp strength, but the ammount of pullups somebody (and especially somebody just starting out climbing and wantin to get stronger) could do on a ledge like that would not stress the muscle groups utilized during pullups (lats, chest, back..) for a long enough duration to see much benefit before the finger flexors are exhausted...
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saskclimber
Dec 8, 2004, 9:47 PM
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Here's a project I did for a Kinesiology class last year as a mock strength training program for a rock climbing client (myself)
270_Resistance.doc
*if it won't download, its because the geocities account has already exceeded its bandwidth...wait a bit and try again later...
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vbhide
Dec 9, 2004, 2:16 PM
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My problem was that in all the com petitions that I have participated in, I have generally taken a fall when my power ran out, even though I had known exactly what to do to go for the next hold/clip.
After my last competiutional misadventure, I have sworn to never ever fail in a competitrion because of a deficiency of power or endurance.
Hence my focus on "the basic aspects of climbing", by which , if I ever fail in a competition, it shouldnt be because of a deficiency of power,endurance,finger strenght, core strenght, etc.
Further, I can climb only twice a week, so I focus on these aspects on the other days.
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