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Preference of quickdraws
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chrisparedes


Dec 11, 2004, 5:30 AM
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Preference of quickdraws
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Do you prefer long or short draws when climbing a sport route? Why do you prefer the length you use?


kman


Dec 11, 2004, 5:40 AM
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For sport climbing I like the kind that attaches to the rope on one end and to the bolt on the other. Or visa versa. :wink:


pulley


Dec 11, 2004, 5:47 AM
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I prefer shorter draws for sport climbing. Shorter draws are usually cheaper than long draws. Of course if you also climb trad it may be better to just go with longer draws.


ikefromla


Dec 11, 2004, 9:22 AM
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how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws?


cgailey


Dec 11, 2004, 9:52 AM
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In reply to:
how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws?

I use several lengths...even tripled over dyneema slings (trad draws) for sport climbing. If the route is consistent in steepness and the bolts line up, I'll use only short ones...but that rarely occurs here in AK. The longer draws help reduce a lot of rope drag over the frequent bulges and overhangs.


omeier


Dec 11, 2004, 10:38 AM
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I like the medium and long ones. they work well when tradding, and help minimize rope drag, though i have never really had much of a problem with that. I can't really see the use of the short ones though (I'm thinking of the petzl ones, the three sizes, stubby, ie practically two binners, up to the long 7 inchers or so.)


anykineclimb


Dec 11, 2004, 2:02 PM
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The Petzl ones are GREAT!, well except for their shortest length.
that one just dumb. IMHO

I've got a variety
10 DMM 6"
2 DMM 9"
2 Petzl 9"
6 or so tripled shoulder slings too.


andy_reagan


Dec 11, 2004, 2:46 PM
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I havn't really used any horrible draws. I own the metolius, and while they are a bit heavy, I like the clipping on them. I imagine the "spirit" draws by petzl are the shiznit, but who is going to spend that freaking much on a sport draw?


bandidopeco


Dec 11, 2004, 5:31 PM
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i prefere medium to long quick draws, i currently have mostly singing rock slings with stubai biners. One thing i wish i had done, however, was to buy all Kong key-lock biners for the bolt side. This is because they don't have the little hook that really likes to catch on your harness loop when you really need to make the clip quickly.

Bridwell said that the keylock makes all other biners obsolete. just food for thought.


forkliftdaddy


Dec 14, 2004, 2:11 AM
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for the most part i clip shorter draws, but not stubbies. i do carry longer draws for shuts, reachy clips, bolts that would cause drag, and places where the clipping biner would otherwise be over an edge. i carry a couple stubbies for similar reasons.


jt512


Dec 14, 2004, 4:49 AM
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In reply to:
I prefer shorter draws for sport climbing. Shorter draws are usually cheaper than long draws.

What, by 40 cents?

-Jay


wa_hoo


Dec 24, 2004, 3:05 AM
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In reply to:
how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws?

Okay - so I'm new to leading and climbing outside and will be buying a set of draws this spring, so can you or someone explain why long draws are always better, and how long are we talking?

Please assume I will always do sport and never trad in your response. Thanks!


jt512


Dec 24, 2004, 3:11 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws?

Okay - so I'm new to leading and climbing outside and will be buying a set of draws this spring, so can you or someone explain why long draws are always better, and how long are we talking?

Long draws reduce rope drag and allow you to clip without having to pull rope up so high, an advantage on harder routes.

In reply to:
Please assume I will always do sport and never trad in your response.

That is the most sensible statement I've read all week.

-Jay


Partner holdplease2


Dec 24, 2004, 3:32 AM
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Having some short(er) and many long gives you a chance to use a different length of draw in the event that one length leaves your lower biner across an edge, where it could break.

Variety gives choice, choice can be good. Especially if you are a beginner and may be climbing may less than vertical routes with large holds...irregularities that can impact biners.

-Kate.


dorkmaster


Dec 24, 2004, 3:59 AM
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see, the thing about 'draws is they are all basically the same, two 'biners and a piece of sewn webbing connecting them. So really the only difference in them is the biners (and the length of the sling). Go to the closest climbing store and play with some. Clip each one onto something, find one you like best and either buy it there or go find them online in bulk for cheaper :wink:


Partner climbinginchico


Dec 24, 2004, 5:22 AM
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I think if i could have any draws, I would probably go for the long BD draws with the positron (pro) and hotwire (rope). The hotwire is the best clipping biner I have used.

Long draws are useful because they cut rope drag.


cf


Jan 18, 2005, 9:40 PM
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Long draws are also nice because they can make some clips easier. If they are already hung, you can often times clip with a straight arm oposed to locking off while you clip.


el_cap


Feb 1, 2005, 3:57 PM
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How many quickdraws are usualy needed for a average climb? Right now, I have 6 12cm draws, and if I need to get more, I was planning on getting 6 18cm draws just to have some variation in lenght.


caughtinside


Feb 1, 2005, 4:22 PM
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In reply to:

In reply to:
Please assume I will always do sport and never trad in your response.

That is the most sensible statement I've read all week.

-Jay

Fabulous! :lol:


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