|
chrisparedes
Dec 11, 2004, 5:30 AM
Post #1 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2004
Posts: 211
|
Do you prefer long or short draws when climbing a sport route? Why do you prefer the length you use?
|
|
|
|
|
kman
Dec 11, 2004, 5:40 AM
Post #2 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
For sport climbing I like the kind that attaches to the rope on one end and to the bolt on the other. Or visa versa. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
pulley
Dec 11, 2004, 5:47 AM
Post #3 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 36
|
I prefer shorter draws for sport climbing. Shorter draws are usually cheaper than long draws. Of course if you also climb trad it may be better to just go with longer draws.
|
|
|
|
|
ikefromla
Dec 11, 2004, 9:22 AM
Post #4 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
|
how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws?
|
|
|
|
|
cgailey
Dec 11, 2004, 9:52 AM
Post #5 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 585
|
In reply to: how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws? I use several lengths...even tripled over dyneema slings (trad draws) for sport climbing. If the route is consistent in steepness and the bolts line up, I'll use only short ones...but that rarely occurs here in AK. The longer draws help reduce a lot of rope drag over the frequent bulges and overhangs.
|
|
|
|
|
omeier
Dec 11, 2004, 10:38 AM
Post #6 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2004
Posts: 60
|
I like the medium and long ones. they work well when tradding, and help minimize rope drag, though i have never really had much of a problem with that. I can't really see the use of the short ones though (I'm thinking of the petzl ones, the three sizes, stubby, ie practically two binners, up to the long 7 inchers or so.)
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Dec 11, 2004, 2:02 PM
Post #7 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
The Petzl ones are GREAT!, well except for their shortest length. that one just dumb. IMHO I've got a variety 10 DMM 6" 2 DMM 9" 2 Petzl 9" 6 or so tripled shoulder slings too.
|
|
|
|
|
andy_reagan
Dec 11, 2004, 2:46 PM
Post #8 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
|
I havn't really used any horrible draws. I own the metolius, and while they are a bit heavy, I like the clipping on them. I imagine the "spirit" draws by petzl are the shiznit, but who is going to spend that freaking much on a sport draw?
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Dec 11, 2004, 5:31 PM
Post #9 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
i prefere medium to long quick draws, i currently have mostly singing rock slings with stubai biners. One thing i wish i had done, however, was to buy all Kong key-lock biners for the bolt side. This is because they don't have the little hook that really likes to catch on your harness loop when you really need to make the clip quickly. Bridwell said that the keylock makes all other biners obsolete. just food for thought.
|
|
|
|
|
forkliftdaddy
Dec 14, 2004, 2:11 AM
Post #10 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
|
for the most part i clip shorter draws, but not stubbies. i do carry longer draws for shuts, reachy clips, bolts that would cause drag, and places where the clipping biner would otherwise be over an edge. i carry a couple stubbies for similar reasons.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Dec 14, 2004, 4:49 AM
Post #11 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: I prefer shorter draws for sport climbing. Shorter draws are usually cheaper than long draws. What, by 40 cents? -Jay
|
|
|
|
|
wa_hoo
Dec 24, 2004, 3:05 AM
Post #12 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2004
Posts: 203
|
In reply to: how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws? Okay - so I'm new to leading and climbing outside and will be buying a set of draws this spring, so can you or someone explain why long draws are always better, and how long are we talking? Please assume I will always do sport and never trad in your response. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Dec 24, 2004, 3:11 AM
Post #13 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: In reply to: how does anyone not see the advantages of long draws? Okay - so I'm new to leading and climbing outside and will be buying a set of draws this spring, so can you or someone explain why long draws are always better, and how long are we talking? Long draws reduce rope drag and allow you to clip without having to pull rope up so high, an advantage on harder routes.
In reply to: Please assume I will always do sport and never trad in your response. That is the most sensible statement I've read all week. -Jay
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Dec 24, 2004, 3:32 AM
Post #14 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
Having some short(er) and many long gives you a chance to use a different length of draw in the event that one length leaves your lower biner across an edge, where it could break. Variety gives choice, choice can be good. Especially if you are a beginner and may be climbing may less than vertical routes with large holds...irregularities that can impact biners. -Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
dorkmaster
Dec 24, 2004, 3:59 AM
Post #15 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 268
|
see, the thing about 'draws is they are all basically the same, two 'biners and a piece of sewn webbing connecting them. So really the only difference in them is the biners (and the length of the sling). Go to the closest climbing store and play with some. Clip each one onto something, find one you like best and either buy it there or go find them online in bulk for cheaper :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Dec 24, 2004, 5:22 AM
Post #16 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
I think if i could have any draws, I would probably go for the long BD draws with the positron (pro) and hotwire (rope). The hotwire is the best clipping biner I have used. Long draws are useful because they cut rope drag.
|
|
|
|
|
cf
Jan 18, 2005, 9:40 PM
Post #17 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 19
|
Long draws are also nice because they can make some clips easier. If they are already hung, you can often times clip with a straight arm oposed to locking off while you clip.
|
|
|
|
|
el_cap
Feb 1, 2005, 3:57 PM
Post #18 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2004
Posts: 21
|
How many quickdraws are usualy needed for a average climb? Right now, I have 6 12cm draws, and if I need to get more, I was planning on getting 6 18cm draws just to have some variation in lenght.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Feb 1, 2005, 4:22 PM
Post #19 of 19
(4492 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: In reply to: Please assume I will always do sport and never trad in your response. That is the most sensible statement I've read all week. -Jay Fabulous! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
|