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hunter
Jun 10, 2002, 1:17 PM
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I'm new to rock climbing so maybe I'm not up on what's usual behavior but I was surprised at what I saw this weekend at a popular top roping crag that I hadn't been to before.
Folks rapping and climbing on one piece of bomber protection w/o a back-up or in one case they had back-up protection placed 180 degrees apart and at a 90 degree angle to the rope fall. (I took a moment to look at the set-up and there were much better options present.)
Folks standing on the very edge of the cliff without being clipped into a safety. Is this some sort of bravado macho thing? One unexpected gust of wind, a loud noise that surprises you, a moment of vertigo, a loose rock, any of which could send you to the bottom and for what?
Despite numerous stones being tossed over the edge by tourists walking along on the top of the crag 90% of the climbers weren't wearing a brain bucket.
I happened by a climber who was nervously preparing to rapp down to her partner waiting far below. Turns out she had never rapped before in her life. The others in their group that were still at the top didn't know anything about rappelling either so I took a few moments to get her calmed down, check her rig, and get her started.
In the short time I've been climbing I've never been to a place that had so many folks seemingly w/o a clue.
As an aside: Theft of gear was a problem at this crag as well. I was warned to not use any gear in setting up the top rope or leave my pack else it would most likely be gone when I returned. I thought they were exagerating till the guy on the tope rope next to mine had some loose gear he'd left next to his set-up walk off.
The whole experiance left a bad taste in my mouth.
So am I just an old fool w/o a clue? Or does this not represent a typical crag environment?
Hunter
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dondiego
Jun 10, 2002, 1:43 PM
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Hunter,
I would say that this is not typical of our community. In several years of climbing I could count on one hand the number of people who were really bad examples of climbers but there is no way I could count the number of people who gave help, advice, or just encouraging words as they were walking by. It's discouraging to see people who don't do the sport justice, but Karma has a way of catching up to people like that.
-Don Diego-
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timpanogos
Jun 10, 2002, 1:44 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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That's too bad! I don't think that is typical of what I've seen in the SLC and Provo/Orem Utah climbing sites. I've been impressed the otherway around - good attitudes - towards safety as well as others sharing the rock with you.
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dannymccracken
Jun 10, 2002, 2:21 PM
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The theft of equipment is not typical behavior where I climb. Unfortunately the habit of working on a top edge without a safety is more common. I just try to lead by example and always use a safety when setting up. I also believe in always using an anchor for a belay on top rope and sport routes. I outweigh my partner by 30 pounds and still have been jerked towards a wall when he takes a fall.
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theamish
Jun 10, 2002, 2:28 PM
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As with anything that gains popularity as fast as climbing has, you will find the faster the numbers grow the better the odds will become that a lot of people who have no clue as to what they are doing or the dangers that are involved will be out there. All I can advise you, is to choose your partners carefully and please realize most true climbers will be safe and polite.
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howitzer
Jun 10, 2002, 2:29 PM
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Hunter - you wouldn't be referring to Great Falls park in VA would you?!? I can't tell you how many nasty set ups I've seen there which are NOT safe, and the number of inexperienced people there is astounding. I have never had an issue with theft there, though, so I may be off on the location. There and Carderock are the two crags I climb at here and I experience the same thing at both - I hardly ever see a set-up that I would climb on myself. It's pretty bad, and I definately would say this is a-typical of the great community of climbers in general. I never see stuff like this in NC or NH where I have climbed. Here's hoping the get some sense knocked into em, and not by falling rocks
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jman
Jun 10, 2002, 2:31 PM
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Hunter...sad to say that I've seen similar instances to the ones that you saw at local top rope crags around the DC area. I've always thought the cause was lack of experience and improper instruction. When I've seen something questionable or something blatantly unsafe I've usually been ready to lend a helping hand or a suggestion or two.
When I've heard of thefts of gear it has been at crags that are right along hiking trails with a lot of foot traffic. I'd like to think the thieves are not other climbers. Personally I haven't had anything stolen, I try to not leave my gear lying around unattented and not to use expensive pro to set up top ropes in areas with a lot of foot traffic for fear of theft.
I'm not sure what to do about theft but to get a lock box to store gear cause this past weekend at Franklin rocks in West Virginia someone tried to break into our vehicle, but was not successful.
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justgoupfromthere
Jun 10, 2002, 3:27 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2002
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WOW! That sounds pretty bad. It's a good thing that you were there to lend a hand. I can't say that I've seen that around the crags I've been to, and I definitely dont' consider that normal/acceptable behavior. The theft of gear would really twirk my melon, and the use of only ONE piece of gear for a toprope blows my mind. I usually use four or five pieces just for a belay station! I guess inexperienced people are going to become more and more as the sport become more and more popular.
Anxious to Ascend
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hunter
Jun 10, 2002, 3:47 PM
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You folks that guessed Great Falls VA hit the nail on the head.
Most of the climbers I spoke with were friendly but the whole atmosphere struck me as a little off, maybe it was just me.
I'd like to go down there again sometime but I'll probably try to avoid weekends.
Thanks for the input.
Hunter
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moonshine
Jun 11, 2002, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 23, 2002
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hunter, if you're worried about theft, then put your harness and gear on at the car, take a couple pieces of fruit and the cheapest water bottle you have. if you climb at this place alot, make up a top rope anchoring system with quick links (harder for someone to walk off with) and clip it to your harness and use that instead of biners.
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climbsomething
Jun 11, 2002, 8:37 PM
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Whoa. Quite a condensed instance of sketchiness. Yeah, I have seen lots of incompetence at the crags in my short time of climbing, not enough to characterize the sport but enough to worry me. I feel a bit snotty, but at the same time truly concerned, when I see a small party where everybody has brand new gear and shoes. I appreciate enthusiasm among new climbers, but the best way to get into the sport is to have an experienced companion to give you thorough instruction. (can't enjoy climbing when you're in traction, or worse! ) never stop offering advice when you see something sketchy, and never stop asking if you feel remotely unsure of anything yourself!!
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topher
Jun 12, 2002, 4:15 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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all i can say is I'm glade that at my local caigs there are only a hnad full of climbers and 90% of the time you dont see any one and if you do you all ready know them\.
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aelita
Jun 12, 2002, 4:41 AM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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I must say I had a chance to climb both Great Falls VA and Corderock, MD this last weekend, and it was Corderock that struck me as a crazy place - tons of people, nearly every climb taken up, most people were really nice, but I was told immediately that equipment was not safe and neither were people as many of them have rarely or never been climbing outside... I found Great Falls much nicer, but then it wasn't that crowded there and a lot quieter...
It was the first time I've seen something like that at a climbing area. It reminded me of a bad public gym, although I still had a great time climbing... Crowded happens at Seneca WV as well, but the vibe is totally different! Still don't know why DC area is like that though...
Aelita
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kevlar
Jun 14, 2002, 4:46 AM
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New to climbing here in Calif. in the Tollhouse area. We seem to have honest climbers here, but one can never be to certain. We have many come from the San Francisco area and I often see them leave packs at the top an bottom of climbs. We can only do so much and we all are here for the fun and to be safe at all times. I enjoy a goooooood rush from leading when I figure I am the one who will see the main pain if I fall...but to set up gear on top rope when others are going to use it...PLEASE DO YOUR HOMEWORK...I have noticed but ever so slightly that climbers have " attitude" but when in doubt I am sure all will share advice. Going down the rock in not near as fun as going up...I am not sure and not looking to find out...Happy climbing
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