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stewbabby
Oct 9, 2003, 9:09 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
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Has anybody here done it... have any beta on it ext???
stewart
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lilcapntravis
Oct 9, 2003, 9:34 PM
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Last time I was down there I kept looking and looking at it. Looks like an AWESOME long climb. I think there's even a cool ledge for a bivy with a little hut built for shade.
It's around the surfbowl/dihedral area, near the outrage wall. Get Magic Ed's guidebook, and there's an excellent topo of it there.
Please let me know how this goes if you do it. I really want to give this one a shot.
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missedyno
Oct 10, 2003, 1:10 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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yeah, i've only seen it too, but i'd like to climb it. post a trip report if you do? please?
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catdaddy
Dec 18, 2003, 9:42 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2003
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I have done timewave zero last year a day or two after i got finished bolting it and cleaning it with magic ed, Paul Irby, Jimmy Carse and Will Meinen from canada, over a two month period. After the limestone dust settled it was a 23 pitch sport route at 12a there is a nice bivy ledge at pitch 12 (no hut) most of the pitches are in 5.8 to 5.10 range with maybe 2 - 5.11 pitches the 12a is pitch 21 most people are tired after 20 pitches so the crux pitch is bolted close enough to french free so everyone has an equal chance to get to the top (so you don't have to climb 5.12) its a very fun climb that has been done in three hours but can be more fun if done over two days so when you are down there give it a shot. it starts right of the surf bowls There is a good topo in magic ed's guide book
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chuffinator
Dec 18, 2003, 10:19 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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Buy a guide book from Tami the Guaguama Queen, It's got all the info on Time Wave Zero as well as all the updated routes.
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eduardo
Dec 18, 2003, 11:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2003
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the topo in Magic Ed's book is very good and detailed. Stellar climb. Look for fire pit on the big ledge- great spot
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timstich
Dec 19, 2003, 1:50 AM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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Well let's look at the topo here and put a few details out there to get you interested. +- ratings are mixed with a,b,c,d.
Pitch 1, 5.7, 100ft.
Pitch 2, 5.11a/b, 90ft
Pitch 3, 5.9-, 100ft
Pitch 4, 5.9-, 100ft
Pitch 5, 5.10a, 100ft
Pitch 6, 5.9-, 108ft
Pitch 7, 5.7, 45ft, fixed line for rappel
Pitch 8, 3rd class
Pitch 9, 5.9+, 100ft, rap station for direct descent to ledge
Pitch 10, 5.10b, 100ft
Pitch 11, 5.9, 100ft.
Pitch 12, 5.7, 60ft, bivy ledge
Pitch 13, 5.8, 100ft
Pitch 14, 5.9, 100ft
Pitch 15, 5.10a, 100ft
Pitch 16, 5.10d, 100ft
Pitch 17, 5.9+, 100ft, directional fixed quickdraws for rappel
Pitch 18, 5.9+, 100ft
Pitch 19, 5.9+, 90ft
Pitch 20, 5.10d, 90ft
Pitch 21, 5.12a, 90ft
Pitch 22, 5.8, 100ft
Pitch 23, 5.6, 100ft
I love my little hot pink covered guide book. While you are down there, say hello to Ed and Tami.
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slick_rick.org
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Feb 9, 2004, 2:36 AM
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so I read only 1 5.11 pitch?
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potreroed
Feb 12, 2004, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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After a number of ascents some of the grades have been adjusted by general concensus (sp?):
pitch 2 11b/c
pitch 16 10b (instead of 10d)
pitch 19 10a
pitch 20 11a
pitch 22 9+
Come down and climb it and give us your opinion!
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stick233
Feb 12, 2004, 8:51 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2002
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timewave zero sounds like an amazing trip, but is there anything with 20+pitches that maxes out in the 5.9 area? just curious.
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elpollo
Feb 12, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
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I live in monterrey, and i'm planning on climbing timewave in a month or so, two friends just did it las week. where in potrero can I find you Ed? so I can buy the topo from you
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timstich
Feb 13, 2004, 3:47 AM
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In reply to: I live in monterrey, and i'm planning on climbing timewave in a month or so, two friends just did it las week. where in potrero can I find you Ed? so I can buy the topo from you
Ask around at Homero's or Mel's.
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keinangst
Feb 13, 2004, 5:28 AM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2003
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Hey Stew,
Did you already check with Gus? (guslf from SCC)
He just got back from Portrero and did TimeWave Zero over a two-day stretch. I bet he can fill you in as well as anyone.
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endrizzi
Dec 17, 2004, 7:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 100
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1) Any more beta on this route?
2) Can we order the route book online?
3) Is route too cold to climb during New Years this year?
dreez
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 17, 2004, 7:06 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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In reply to: timewave zero sounds like an amazing trip, but is there anything with 20+pitches that maxes out in the 5.9 area? just curious.
Yes. It's called "The Scariest Ride in the Park" and it's a 40 pitch 5.9 X ridge climb up El Toro, if I remember correctly. I think it starts in the Virgin Canyon.
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potreroed
Dec 17, 2004, 8:02 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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The Potrero Chico guidebook is currently available only locally after you arrive--however, we are working on a new web site which will contain more info on many of the long routes, including topos etc.
Will it be too cold to climb Timewave Zero in January??? Hard to tell--it's been a mild Winter so far but anything can happen. It could be in the low 40's or in the mid-80's.
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peterw
Dec 21, 2004, 4:48 AM
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Registered: Sep 3, 2004
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Tami should have her coffee place open by now, you can get the guidebook there I'm sure.
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cacophony
Dec 21, 2004, 5:01 AM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2004
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Did it last new years, super fun, bring lots of water and some food for the summit. We climbed it in 7 hours. we linked alot of pitches and simulclimbed a few. Wear your helmet and bring some comfy shoes, the friction is so amazing you can just smear almost anything. Have fun and enjoy the view from the top of EL TORO.
PEACE
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endrizzi
Jan 3, 2005, 10:36 PM
Post #19 of 21
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 100
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In reply to: Did it last new years, super fun, bring lots of water and some food for the summit. We climbed it in 7 hours. we linked alot of pitches and simulclimbed a few. Wear your helmet and bring some comfy shoes, the friction is so amazing you can just smear almost anything. Have fun and enjoy the view from the top of EL TORO. PEACE
Confirm: Did it Dec 31st 2004. Weather was awesome. Friction fantastic. Great bolting job. Did it in 7 hours, down in 3 hours. Nothing scary a couple run outs. If you climb 5.10 you can handle it.
New Years Party at Hamero's was fantastic, wild.
dreez
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craftedpacket
Jul 24, 2006, 7:40 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2004
Posts: 187
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Is there a lot of exposure on this wall? Looking at the photos I can find I cant really tell. With all of the lower grade pitches it sounds like it might be a bit slabby. For those of you who have climbed it, what was your experience?
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endrizzi
Jul 25, 2006, 6:02 PM
Post #21 of 21
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 100
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I am scared of falling down my back steps and I didn't have
any freaky moments on this climb. Yes the bolts are spaced
out, but I think most the climb went 5.8 to 5.9 with moments
of 5.10d moves. All the hard parts are bolt ladders 5.11 and 5.12.
We climbed really fast because it was just bolted so nice.
Make sure you simul-rap or else you will be rapping forever.
I'd rap on 150 foot ropes, 200 get all twisted on simulrap.
dreez
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