|
ikellen
Jan 3, 2005, 10:18 PM
Post #1 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
Im looking at doing the east buttress on mt. whitney this summer. I'm interested to know what approach people took to get to iceberg lake, where I plan to bivy the night before. I have the supertopo sierra book, and the "climbers" approach, while more direct, looks like a routefinding nightmare. For those that took that approach, how accurate was the supertopo beta, and was it easy to follow? Is the regular tourist approach easier for a first timer? I'm not even considering doing the route car to car in a day, so im just looking for the easiest approach to our base camp at iceberg lake.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
yosemite
Jan 3, 2005, 11:05 PM
Post #2 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 331
|
What do you mean by the regular tourist approach?
|
|
|
|
|
ikellen
Jan 3, 2005, 11:17 PM
Post #3 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
I mean the park service trail that goes southwest and then north to meet up with whitney. The supertopo approach goes directly west from the trailhead, and then breaks off towards the ebersbacher ledges.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jan 3, 2005, 11:24 PM
Post #4 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
I have climbed this a couple of times and have hiked the trail to top of Whitney. I believe the trail in Supertopo was the same one we followed to the climbs and it was not difficult to find. I don't think that using the "park sevice trail" is a real option as it doesn't really put you in the right place to get to Iceberg lake.
|
|
|
|
|
tylerm
Jan 3, 2005, 11:29 PM
Post #5 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2003
Posts: 153
|
Use the climbers approach...the only difficult section of trailfinding is breaking off the main trail to start the climbers trail and navigating the ledges to the upper trail. Use your head- it is not that much of a nightmare as described. I think I saw that supertopo guide once and it was fairly exacting.
As for the "tourist" route- that puts you on the summit-you would have to climb down the mountaineers route to reach the east buttress. The climbers approach, although arduous in some areas, is much more direct (I think the other way is 10+ miles to summit) and less traveled.
tyler
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Jan 3, 2005, 11:46 PM
Post #6 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
I am hoping to spend 5 to 7 days in the area this summer. My goals are to climb Whitney, Keeler, and Fishhook Arete. Does anyone know if you can use a single basecamp to access each of these? What would that basecamp be? Iceberg Lake? Is the climbers trail the ideal way to get there? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jan 3, 2005, 11:51 PM
Post #7 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
You can do Whitney and Russell (Fishhook) from the same base at Iceberg lake. Russell is a little farther away but not bad, if you want a head start you can move your camp a little closer. I would think you can do Keeler as well, but I have not climbed it so I don't know for sure.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Jan 3, 2005, 11:55 PM
Post #8 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
Thanks. One more question. Do you need to go throught the Forest Service permit lottery if you are going up the climber's trail? I guess the lottery is in Feb, so if I need to get on it if it is necessary.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jan 3, 2005, 11:55 PM
Post #9 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
In reply to: I am hoping to spend 5 to 7 days in the area this summer. My goals are to climb Whitney, Keeler, and Fishhook Arete. Does anyone know if you can use a single basecamp to access each of these? What would that basecamp be? Iceberg Lake? Is the climbers trail the ideal way to get there? Thanks.
Iceberg Lake is a convenient basecamp for sure.
Definitely the best way to Iceberg is the climbers' trail.
Only problem is that in the summer you are supposed to get a wilderness permit, which can be challenging to say the least. Another option is therefore to go car-to-car... a vigorous walk, to be sure, but if you bring a headlamp and a GPS device you should be fine. If you opt for the permit notion you will need to get in on the lottery or show up at the rangers' office in Lone Pine (?) to try for a permit from a party that has canceled.
In favor of the car-to-car approach: If a fat old man like me can make it to the Mithral Dihedral in from the parking lot in 5 hours, climb it in 5 hours, and do the descent in 3 hours (all true and all done), so can you. However, since you're smart, you will bring a little GPS device and a decent headlamp so that you and your partner don't bivy under a rock halfway to Mt. Ritter when you get lost on the descent from the climb... :-D ...not that I would know anything about that.
Even if you do get a permit and go for the base-camp style, I would recommend bringing a GPS device and a decent headlamp (even an Ion larks-footed to your chalkbag belt and stuffed into the bag would be fine, although the brighter, the better). All the peaks look pretty much the same on a moonless night (again speaking from experience). Easy to get turned around if you experience any unforeseen difficulties on the descent.
Finishing the climbs by dusk (at least, Fishhook and East Buttress) is easy. Finishing the descents can be more problematic. Unless you're planning to solo everything (not unheard of, to be sure), that extra half-pound of security blanket may prove to be well worthwhile. (as far as Keeler Needle goes, addiroids had a good time on it, perhaps he or someone else who has done it in a day can comment on feasability.)
Oh, and bring some iodine tablets for treating your water. The Whitney Portal is one of the only places in the Sierra where you're pretty well likely to find Giardia in a stream. (This is coming from someone who has eaten raw pork salads in Laos and often drinks from the Merced and muddy springs in Yosemite. I'm soooooo not joking about this.)
Have fun, the Sierra is quite the high alpine playground in summer. (And fall. And spring. And winter for that matter...)
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Jan 4, 2005, 12:00 AM
Post #10 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
The permit is for north fork of lone pine creek
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/wild/mt_whitney.html
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Jan 4, 2005, 12:18 AM
Post #11 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
The approach going up is very easy to find, just hang a right at the log on the uphill side of the stream and follow a well beat out trail.
One thing you should do is turn around and scope out the ledges descent on the way up and memorize a mental snap shot of what it looks like. It's not as obvious on the way down where the start is as it is going up. This is usualy well ducked though and not much of a problem.
The rule for the Sierras is on top by noon and back in camp by three. Adhere to that and you've solved 90% of your weather, navigation and snow condition problems.
|
|
|
|
|
vtaclimber
Jan 4, 2005, 12:43 AM
Post #12 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 16, 2002
Posts: 21
|
I went to Iceberg Lake this past summer, but did not climb. The easiest approach to Iceberg is via the Mountaineers Route. This "hike" is pretty steep and strenuous(with a 50lb. pack), but nothing too hardcore. Aside from the altitude, would be much easier with a lighter pack.
|
|
|
|
|
climberdude222
Jan 4, 2005, 1:44 AM
Post #13 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2004
Posts: 15
|
don't camp at iceberg. it is windy and cold
camp at thor lake. it is about half a mile down the trail, same approach.
it is protected, has easy (and unfrozen) water
it will only add an hour or so to the approach day of climb, and can be done in the dark. i did it without a headlamp, and it was easy, super casual route finding
|
|
|
|
|
actionfigure
Jan 4, 2005, 2:23 AM
Post #14 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 18, 2004
Posts: 107
|
iceburg lake is gross dude! don't drink that shit! there is a nice spot below the day needle for a bivy with water. if you are going to do fishhook or the west face of russell this isn't so great but there are spots on the other side of the whitney-russell col that are good.
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Jan 4, 2005, 2:37 AM
Post #15 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
I'm hoping to get on the east face of Whitney this summer by a very unique approach. In september I'm hoping to do the John Muir Trail from Yosemite and summit Whitney by soloing the east face. Hopefully the pack won't weigh too much!
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
robman
Jan 4, 2005, 3:20 AM
Post #16 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 58
|
Hey...
I have climbed East face , East But, Fish Hook, Mitheral Diheadral and Kealer.
Your best bet is North fork lone Pine to Ice burg should take about 4 to 7 hours depends on you and your pack.
best spot camp is at the base of Whitney from there you can hike to Russell in about 40min. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Jan 4, 2005, 5:53 PM
Post #17 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
In reply to: Hey... I have climbed East face , East But, Fish Hook, Mitheral Diheadral and Kealer. Your best bet is North fork lone Pine to Ice burg should take about 4 to 7 hours depends on you and your pack. best spot camp is at the base of Whitney from there you can hike to Russell in about 40min. :wink:
What is the Mitheral Dihedral? I have never heard of it. Is it worth doing?
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Jan 4, 2005, 6:00 PM
Post #18 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Mithril Dihedral is a corner system that looks absolutely beautiful. It goes at the 5.10a/b range if memory serves right. I haven't done it, but have heard it described as one of the better high sierra routes. There are also one or two crack systems to the left of Mithril Dihedral that look good from pictures I've seen. You should definitely look into these climbs since I'm sure they're more crack oriented than a ridge climb.
Edit: Mithril Dihedral is an obvious corner system on Mt. Russel.
|
|
|
|
|
thomaskeefer
Jan 4, 2005, 6:15 PM
Post #19 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 186
|
Tim Wrote... "drinks from the Merced and muddy springs in Yosemite."
This is true.. I have seen him do it!
The supertopo is spot on. We did the approach and had no problems. It is much less of a routfinding nightmare than it sounds in the description. The only two spots I can think of, despite being marked by cairns, are the spots where you swithback on the eber. ledges and then at the entrance from the really thick brush onto the slab and exiting the slab to the final trail.
One other item of beta..
When you approaching the last steep headwall (15mins before you get to avalanch lake) you will have to make another series of ledge ascents. Use the big waterfall for your guide. It is a good spot to fill up and if you pick your way toward where it hits one of the many trails in that area you will be at the best spot for hitting a great trail onto that final ledge system. If memory serves me right, there is nothing really taking about this on the approach guide.
Also, despite its possible windiness, avalanche lake is best if you plan on doing those three routes. Another option is first night beneath the final headwalll and do Keeler, move camp to Iceberg Lake then do east butt of Whitney then Fishook..
If you need more beta PM me I did it late season this year.
|
|
|
|
|
murf
Jan 5, 2005, 4:25 PM
Post #20 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 1150
|
Whoa! Lots of interesting info on these... I especially like the Mtneers Route approach to Iceberg! The approach is North Fork of the Lone Pine. Compared to the way it used to be, the trail is a veritable freeway. The ledges are usually the hardest route finding issue.
As first come first serve permits these are the most coveted in the range, and there's only 4 a day ( Granted you can get into the lottery ). Where you camp is going to depend on the order you want to do your routes....
For Keeler...I wouldn't camp at Iceberg. There's multiple bivy spots btwn Upper Boyscout and where you turn off to Keeler. It adds 20mins to the descent, but its almost unnoticable compared to the rest of it. A word to the wise, I'd scope the approach and first pitch of Keeler the day before trying it. In the dark,depending on snow level and whether you have an ax, it can be the crux of the route.
For Russell routes I like to camp at Upper Boyscout. The initial approach is harder and longer ( maybe by 45 mins ), but you get to descend the East Ridge right into your camp.
Iceberg is the place to be for the Whitney routes.
Murf
|
|
|
|
|
floridaputz
Jan 5, 2005, 5:08 PM
Post #21 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2002
Posts: 136
|
As has been said, the N. Fork of Lone Pine creek is the standard approach to Iceberg lake, which sits at the base of the East Face of Mt Whitney. This is a climbers trail. That means you must have routefinding skills. To A competent hiker with experience in the Sierra, no problem. If you lack hiking experience you will be challanged with routefinding. Oh and be in shape or you will suffer. Usually if you want a permit to camp @ Iceberg you should be faxing in your permit application exactly 6 months prior to the start of your trip. If you wait you will not get one. They have a very few on a first come basis like any backcountry office. You do not need a permit to hike up the Mountianeers route, but you do need one to camp or decend the Mt Whitney trail. Because of these restrictions many people do a 1 day accent. This is totally doable. I've done the E. Face in 14 hours (AT AGE 43), and also camped at Iceberg and did the E. Butress. I don't know which is more physical. (a 1 day trip or carrying all you camping gear) The climbing is not really the tough part of a trip to Whitney. Planning well in advance is the best way to have a great trip to the Mt Whitney Zone.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Jan 5, 2005, 8:52 PM
Post #22 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
In reply to: Whoa! Lots of interesting info on these... I especially like the Mtneers Route approach to Iceberg! The approach is North Fork of the Lone Pine. Compared to the way it used to be, the trail is a veritable freeway. The ledges are usually the hardest route finding issue. As first come first serve permits these are the most coveted in the range, and there's only 4 a day ( Granted you can get into the lottery ). Where you camp is going to depend on the order you want to do your routes.... For Keeler...I wouldn't camp at Iceberg. There's multiple bivy spots btwn Upper Boyscout and where you turn off to Keeler. It adds 20mins to the descent, but its almost unnoticable compared to the rest of it. A word to the wise, I'd scope the approach and first pitch of Keeler the day before trying it. In the dark,depending on snow level and whether you have an ax, it can be the crux of the route. For Russell routes I like to camp at Upper Boyscout. The initial approach is harder and longer ( maybe by 45 mins ), but you get to descend the East Ridge right into your camp. Iceberg is the place to be for the Whitney routes. Murf
I just called the ranger station yesterday to find out about the lottery. The lottery in February is only if you stay on the Main Mt. Whitney Trail. From reading previous posts in this thread, it seems to me that staying on the Main Mt. Whitney Trail is not the ideal way if you are heading up to climb and camp. My sense is that the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek is the way to go. The ranger told me that you do need to apply for a permit for this trail but it is not a lottery system like the Main Trail; it is first come/first served and you can apply for permits up to 6 months prior to going. The application is on the Inyo National Forest website which was previously posted in this thread.
One caveat: on the Inyo website there is a circular region with the Whitney summit right at the center which if you enter from another trail (such as the North Fork Trail) then you must pay a $15 reservation fee instead of the $5 fee for the North Fork Trail. There is no need to enter the Feburary lottery unless you approach via the Main Mt. Whitney Trail.
Bottom Line: if you want to hang up there and climb then apply 6-months before your trip for a permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek Trail and pay $15 if you want to climb Whitney. Confused yet?
|
|
|
|
|
claramie
Jan 5, 2005, 9:01 PM
Post #23 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 152
|
Finding the turnouff to the mountaineer's route and the technical climbs isn't too bad. It's right where you cross the stream before you pass the national forest sign.
CL
|
|
|
|
|
floridaputz
Jan 5, 2005, 9:58 PM
Post #24 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2002
Posts: 136
|
Hey Crackmd, just to clarify, you are NOT getting a permit to hike the N. Fork of Lone pine Creek (also known as the Mt route) You are geting a permit to camp in the Mt Whitney Zone. That includes Boy scout, upper boy scout, Iceberg Lake or anywhere else in the Mt Whitney zone. This is a wilderness area with special permit limits for camping. NOT day use. But, if you go on the Mt Whitney Trail (tourist trail) you must have a day use permit (if you hike past N Fork of Lone Pine Creek) or a regular permit (only by lottery) to camp or hike past N fork of Lone Pine creek. Including summiting Mt Whitney in a day. But, if you do not camp, you DO NOT need any permits to hike the Mountaineers Route, climb other Whitney routes (E face, E Butress), Mt Russell, (Fishook arete, Mithral Dihedral) or Keeler Needle, Harding route (a grade V) so good luck doing that one in a day unless you are a total hard ass. This area has some of the most complicated rules you will ever find. But Dude by the looks of your ability you might want to do the Mithral Dihedral on Russell.
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Jan 5, 2005, 10:12 PM
Post #25 of 28
(2847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
The extra 15 bucks must be to camp in that zone. When Black Bart and I went for a Langley to Clarion traverse they didn't charge us the extra fee for going thru that zone. This may be highly dependent on who takes your money at the desk and how they interpret the rules though! If the weather goes bad don't worry about bailing down the tourist trail. They won't generaly ding ya for that if things are geting ugly.
The same rules apply for the N. fork as any other trailhead. 60% of the slots per day are first come first served, the remaining 40% by reservation. The line starts at dawn in high season for the unreserved slots though and there aren't all that many, so 6mo out start going for a reservation or have some alternative objectives picked out.
Us old and iresponsible types can show up early mid week or change our plans on a whim so it's not as big a problem. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
