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rendog
Dec 31, 2004, 1:19 PM
Post #26 of 138
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best yet was a 25 footer onto a BD #2. happened for a stoopid reason, but still, if that one blew then I was going 50' and would've crashed shoulder first into the top of a huge detatched pillar. wouldn't have walked away form that one let me tell you that
First fall on gear was a 12 footer onto a #00 metolious cam. didn't even budge. scared the living hell outa me though. it was one of those "Hey this climb isn't so..." pop and away we go...
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areyoumydude
Jan 2, 2005, 4:23 PM
Post #27 of 138
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
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In reply to: Have taken two 40+ footers... One on a Yellow Alien on the soft Navajo Sandstone of Castleton Tower, nothing pulled.
Castleton is the most bomber Windgate sandstone in the desert.
I took a 30 footer on lucy in the sky over potash With the rope behind my leg :oops: . I was caught by a # 5 metolius fcu. That cam is now too small for the same placement. Now that is soft navajo sandstone.
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dredsovrn
Jan 2, 2005, 4:29 PM
Post #28 of 138
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 1226
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#1 Metolius TCU is my favorite piece. It seems to go in on nearly every pitch, and it held my first trad fall (8-10'). It was my first piece on the route.
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pt
Jan 2, 2005, 4:55 PM
Post #29 of 138
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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15 footer onto a marginal #2 HB offset - it Held!
20 footer onto a fixed #9 stopper high on the Yellow Wall on the Diamond (Scary)- it Pulled! Luckily I had a back up piece about 4 feet below it.
(BTW, Castleton is Windgate)
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betyerbottomdollar
Jan 2, 2005, 4:57 PM
Post #30 of 138
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Registered: Dec 26, 2004
Posts: 15
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A few years ago I was climbing in NZ leading a first ascent multi-pitch down in the South Island...halfway up and into the day I took a whipper about six feet above the last piece (I was setting the next). But it wasn't the Metolius nut that caught me, it was the limb sticking out of the rock that I instinctively grabbed onto on my way down! I dunno what kind of tree it was, but I was glad it was there. The bird nesting on the end of it wasn't too happy and neither was my belayer, but it was the limb that saved my fall.
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chico
Jan 3, 2005, 12:33 AM
Post #31 of 138
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Registered: Jan 28, 2004
Posts: 39
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Oh boy, Took a ten footer onto a turquoise #10 smiley face, that was tenuiously placed into irregular Rhyolite in Lassen Volcanic park. Being the weak puss that I am, I slithered out of the off-width and went a-flyin'. Well, the stopper blew, and my happy little ten footer became a horrifying 30 footer with the rope around my leg. When the next piece held, the rope spun me sideways. I just about bashed my teeth out on the top of a pillar below me. I could feel my lips brush past the rock. I was O.K. but rather spooked by my "brush" with disaster. The piece that held?...A dinky assed HB taper that I almost took it off my rack before the climb.!Viva la micro-pro!
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giza
Jan 3, 2005, 1:03 AM
Post #32 of 138
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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Hmmmm (removing cobwebs from smoked out brain)...first lead fall was a few meters and was on a #1 metolius nut...lots of falls on small camalots, nuts and tcu's. The last was fall I took was the result of doing a layback on wet granite....landed on a #2 power cam. I don't think I've fallen on anything larger than a #2 camalot but can hardly wait.
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phugganut
Jan 3, 2005, 3:34 AM
Post #33 of 138
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
Posts: 648
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My last trad fall was 7 or 8 feet on a red Alien at J-Tree a month ago. It held fine.
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onbelay_osu
Jan 5, 2005, 4:51 PM
Post #34 of 138
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Registered: May 5, 2002
Posts: 1087
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my scarirst fall was caught by the good old fashion pink tri cam i thought i had it backed up by i micro blue metolious cam, but it blew and the tri cam caught me. i fell about 15 feet.
more recently i fell on a red camalot, not far though like 2 feet, but any fall on trad lead is enough to make you want to pee your pants and cry home to mommy!
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olejeff
Jan 7, 2005, 2:18 AM
Post #35 of 138
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Registered: Oct 1, 2004
Posts: 99
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.75 camalot
#8 WC rock (twice)
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ncclimber
Jan 7, 2005, 2:41 AM
Post #36 of 138
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Registered: May 5, 2003
Posts: 104
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18 Footer on a blue Lowe Ball.
Saved me from a 60 footer.
My second pulled it right out with on problem.
Love that marginal aid. :twisted:
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jeff788
Jan 7, 2005, 3:52 AM
Post #37 of 138
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Registered: Aug 6, 2004
Posts: 18
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My first lead fall ever was off of the roof on Bad Moki Roof on Wall Street in Moab. It was about half way through the roof... I believe it was a metolius FCU. That really scared me having never fallen before, but there were girls watching so.....
Not my own fall but here's a good one: Ice climbing two weeks ago my friend placed a purple flex-friend in the rock half way up a 90ft ice fall. He placed it where the fall had a step just before the final head-wall. About 15ft up the head wall his axe popped and his hand slipped out of the other leash. I was belaying and all I hear was "oh $hit" and the sound of my friend smacking the step and tumbling down. I honestly thought he was going to come flying off the lower fall. It caught him when he was right on the edge of the last vertical section, on his back, head down hill and legs in the air. No majoy injuries (luckily he had a helmet on). When I got up to the cam (to finish the pitch) the trigger was snapped, the lobes were spun around and the thing somehow managed to wedge itself in like a nut. How it held I'll never know. We walked away from that one very thankfull.
Anyone else have ice climbing stories? As I'm just beginning to lead ice I would be interested.
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blakester
Jan 7, 2005, 4:02 AM
Post #38 of 138
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Registered: Dec 20, 2004
Posts: 142
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15 footer, #2 Robot cam. My only lead fall of any significance.
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vegastradguy
Jan 7, 2005, 4:41 AM
Post #39 of 138
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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huh, havent answered this one yet...weird.
anyway, my only real lead fall was onto a #9 HB Offset that I placed as my third piece on Wholesome Fullback. I had just placed a crappy stopper and wasnt real thrilled with it, then I slotted the HB and was like- that'll hold a fall. Sure enough, I went for the crux, popped, and took a 15' onto the stopper. caught by a hip belay, no less!
i also fell onto anchor once out in Windy Canyon. Took a 15' fall past anchor....that one sucked. walked away with a sprained ankle and a bruised ego. i fell onto my partners gear, though...i didnt place anything before i fell...
i also sorta fell onto a #3 BD camalot on Atman, but it was like a 6" fall, so i really call that one more of a 'take'.
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billcoe_
Jan 7, 2005, 5:16 AM
Post #40 of 138
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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In reply to: Probably the most notable are a 30 footer onto a #3 Crack N' Up. I have always used them for free climbing pro - but, you have to have them slung right for the webbing to not be cut on a fall.
Joseph: that must be that bent one I saw on your rack. Well, there's a mystery unraveled now!
For me, and I admit I don't like to fall and it uncommon, but wired BD stoppers have never let me down when I do fly. Furthermore, although I have seen evidence of cams holding amazing things (single cam, a ridged friend, stuck into a crappy shallow "crack" holding a fairly clean 150 footer with 300 lbs), they also tend to be the pieces, other than the little wireds, which fail on people.
If I get a chance I stuff a wired stopper in.
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healyje
Jan 7, 2005, 11:32 AM
Post #41 of 138
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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In reply to: 18 Footer on a blue Lowe Ball. Saved me from a 60 footer. My second pulled it right out with on problem. Love that marginal aid. :twisted:
That's the spirit! I free climb on my Lowe Balls and have taken solid falls on all of them, even the smallest yellow ones. I've taken a bunch of dives on to the clears and blues. I can't imagine leaving the ground without those three at the very least and usually doubles of them.
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tenesmus
Jan 8, 2005, 2:50 AM
Post #42 of 138
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
Posts: 263
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This fall I took a 30 footer onto an orange TCU. A chunk of chossy rock popped and made me twist in the air and head down. Scarriest moment of climbing for me.
The moral of the story is to never trust the grade of a new 5.9 route put up on lead, on questionable rock by a 5.13 trad climber
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Jan 8, 2005, 3:03 AM
Post #43 of 138
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 362
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Widdle bitty fall onto a red Alien. I was trying to top out a slopey, polished, grit stone mud fest in the rain. I got what I deserved. Got the RP later that week when it was dry.
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stymingersfink
Jan 9, 2005, 8:03 PM
Post #44 of 138
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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Leading above the black tower with the wall kittens this past october I placed two lobes of a blue/black alien in a pin scar about 8 feet above a #1 pecker. I think i had HOPED it would hold, more than i KNEW it would hold, and when it decided to give out, the 30 footer that resulted left me hanging clean about halfway up the tower.
I have never been so stoked to have my pecker caught in a crack.
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twclimber
Jan 9, 2005, 9:20 PM
Post #45 of 138
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Registered: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 29
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oo rp
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rockman_nh
Jan 27, 2005, 1:41 AM
Post #46 of 138
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Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 3
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Metolius Black, #5? caught my 50 footer. My belayer, whom I had met for the first time earlier that day, wasn't paying attention. I would have gone further if he had untied from the rope. The only thing he did right that day. I was in Rocky Mountain National Park. It should have been a ten footer. Lots of things were crossing my mind as I was accelerating beyond what I had anticipated.
I had a sprained ankle for months from the swing into the rock. I did alot of soloing for a while.
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camhead
Jan 27, 2005, 2:24 AM
Post #47 of 138
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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a #3 stopper, .75 camalot, and 3 camalot have held my most memorable falls.
I also had a blue metollius TCU hold a fall... for about a half second before popping out and me decking.
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sinshan
Jan 27, 2005, 2:52 AM
Post #48 of 138
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Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
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---
Metolius Black, #5? caught my 50 footer. My belayer, whom I had met for the first time earlier that day, wasn't paying attention. I would have gone further if he had untied from the rope
----
Whoa. . .so the piece that stopped you was actually an inattentive belayer. damn. glad it turned out well- - at least, considering! Sorry that happened. . .
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dbarandiaran
Feb 1, 2005, 12:30 AM
Post #49 of 138
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 113
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I fell about 10-12 feet on a marginal 0 Metolius TCU. It held fine, but is bent up now, so only to be used for aid i guess.
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wlderdude
Feb 1, 2005, 1:44 AM
Post #50 of 138
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
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My only nasty fall was caught by a good old fassioned #5 hex. It was my first placment on an off route coss plie. A #6 Huevo (aka Smiley, aka Stopper) popped, as did the #1 Trango Flex cam above it. The cam had inverted lobes, so milled cam stops might have helped, but this was the old rolled pin style. I came to rest upside down, 2 feet off the rocks on the deck and staring at my pale belayer. He had thrown himself on the ground to take up as much slack as he could as the pieces were blowing. His head was higher up than mine.
Oh yeah, he was wearing the helmet. I now own 2.
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