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kayakboy
Jan 26, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2005
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Hi there. I recently pulled/ tore/ ruined the tendons in some of the fingers on my left hand. I just started gym class, and for obvious reasons i am confined to the weight room. I would love to take advantage of this time. Can anybody suggest some good muscle groups/ excersizes to target on my down time. It is a regular high school weight room, nothing special. the only machine is a pully system that has weights on one end, and a stool on the other, you pull down on a overhead bar to lift the weights up. i will soon have my own woody, and want to think a head to avoid over use injuries from inbalanced muscles as well. Thankyou much for your time. Ty
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jammer
Jan 27, 2005, 12:19 AM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
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Sorry to hear about your injuries. Too bad they wouldn't allow you to go to the Wall for gym class! Anyway, since you have to favor your hand, you can try strengthening your core muscels, your stomach. It doesn't sound like you have much for weight lifting, otherwise you can work on your leg strength. You can also streach and work on balance.
On another note, do you go to the Wall?
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angry
Jan 27, 2005, 12:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Good Lord, Where does one start with this?
I suggest doing a search, it's been covered.
I'm going to make some bold assumptions about you
You aren't too athletically inclined, you've been climbing under a year, you love climbing, you've been outside only to the most basic local sport crag.
The answer to all of your problems is to give it time and get on real rock. Get in shape, not specific to climbing, but just get in good shape, top to bottom. That way your body will be better able to handle any stress you give it.
Climbing hard on a weak body is possible, you'll just pay the price.
Sorry to insult you, I'm not trying to be rude, but climbing specific training is a waste of time right now.
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kayakboy
Jan 27, 2005, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2005
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Yeah, I havent climed too much. I've had birthday partys at the local wall and stuff, that was pretty much it. about a month ago a rock climbing club started up and i dug right in. My athletic persuits are white water kayaking big time. I enjoy mountian biking alot, hiking. i cant think of much else, but i am pretty buff. The injury came from a dam pocket hold, repeatidly going deeper to make the move. I would love to climb more outside, but there are not a whole lot of spots round these parts, particularly in the winter. All in all i am in good shape but would like to capatolize on my time that would otherwise be wasted bouncing a medicine ball. thanks for the quick replies. P.S. i do indeed go to The Wall. it is about 10 minutes from my house, and sense i am on a "team" it is like 6 bucks a go. We should stay in contact and once i heal up we should hit some rocks. Ty
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mandrake
Jan 27, 2005, 1:02 AM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2004
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I'd recommend you see if you're covered for physical therapy under whatever insurance you've got. If not, check with one of the sports teams' trainers.
Basically, try to get some recommendations for rehabbing the fingers from somebody who knows what they're talking about. Same with working out in general, try to get a workout plan from one of the coaches. Good luck.
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somasight
Feb 1, 2005, 7:25 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Deadlifts.
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ron_burgandy
Feb 1, 2005, 7:33 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Fingers cant really be rehabed... they just need time off with NO STRESS, if you are doing anything that makes it hurt just a little bit thats too much. I know you probably dont want to hear this but even weight lifting can put stress on your sore fingers. In short don't do anything that makes it hurt for...
2-3 weeks if it is a minor strain (which is sounds like it)
Surgury + months if it is torn bad enough
Sorry about the injury... I know it sucks but thats the way it goes... and good luck!
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feanor007
Feb 1, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
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i delt w/fingure/hand injuries as a discus thrower (never my own, but team mates) and you just have to give it time off to heal, even after it quits hurting you still should give it some time. In the mean time you could run and stretch. stretching regurally improves flexablity and balence, which is a climbing plus. no matter who you are or how in shape you are, running/cardio work is always benificial.
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