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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 7, 2005, 5:47 PM
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I just saw this recently on pagan gear's website. These hangers look like they are decent, and they have a normal strength rating, i am just wondering if anyone has used them before. My friend and I are looking into doing much bolting when the weather warms up, and right now we are getting everything (cordless drill, bolts, bits, etc.) from the county search and rescue. All we have to pay for is bolt hangers. Thanks for your time.
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tarzan420
Feb 7, 2005, 6:01 PM
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which hangers? perhaps you meant to link to the Gear DB, or a link to the product page?
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sed
Feb 7, 2005, 6:23 PM
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i just bought 50. for 95 cents you can't beat that anywhere. i've put some in already. i don't like the orientation of the bolt hole to the biner hole, the hanger hangs further right than i like but that probably doesn't mean anything. the metal is a bit thinner than some other hangers but i guess if you trust one the rating (25KN) they are fine and are stronger than most of the gear you'll be clipping into them.
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kyhangdog
Feb 7, 2005, 7:06 PM
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Weird. I just bought 50 and .95. They look good to me. Do seem a little thinner than Metolius and there isn't a brand name on them.
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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 7, 2005, 7:47 PM
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whoops! i meant these
http://www.pagangear.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=561&HS=1
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brianinslc
Feb 7, 2005, 9:32 PM
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If I had to guess, I'd say they were "Lucky" hangers.
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=667517&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=335055&bmUID=1107811933002
Stainless is nice. Be sure to match them up with stainless bolts.
Should take paint ok.
-Brian in SLC
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drector
Feb 7, 2005, 10:05 PM
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I had to do some research since all of the Fixe hangers at home are 40kn. I guess I've got the strongest around. 25kn seems to be more common these days. Looks like a great deal. I'm ordering now if they don't get all fot eh savings back in handling charges!
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jimdavis
Feb 8, 2005, 3:45 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: My friend and I are looking into doing much bolting when the weather warms up from your profile it says you've been climbing for a year and a half. are you sure its a good idea that you go on a n00by bolting binge?
I'll second that sentiment!
Jim
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mesomorf
Feb 8, 2005, 4:14 AM
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In reply to: I'll second that sentiment! |
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sed
Feb 8, 2005, 4:46 AM
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good point about the experience level guys. i think what they are trying to say in their i'm on the internet so i don't care how insulting i am tone is that there are a lot of bolts out there so make sure you know what you're doing and why before you put routes up. get some instruction from people who have done this sort of thing, and search and rescue people may not be the best sources of information on local climbing ethics or route/bolt placement decisions etc.,
S
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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 8, 2005, 5:53 PM
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for all of you stupid holier than thou i've been climbing for 75 years bitches out there, you should note that my profile hasn't been updated for a year, and that my friend, who has been climbing for 12 years and bolting for 5, and i are bolting a new canyon with advice from some local climbers who have been climbing and bolting many of the routes in utah. why is it that dumbass people have to post their worthless opinion whenever someone asks a simple question? don't they realize that no one really gives a shit what they say anyway? just because you don't think i have any experience, forethought, ability, legal right, permission from the local alien population, etc. to go and bolt a few routes, doesn't mean i will even listen to you retards anyway. this is just further proof that this website is just a place for people to go and try to prove their superiority. a big thankyou to sed for not being a dick in expressing his opinion on the matter, and in answer to his post i will say that as a bolting team we have been the sole developers of this canyon and have thus far bolted 20+ routes into which we put much forethought and consideration about where we put bolts, and since we are really the only ones who climb in this area, i feel that it is safe to surmise that we are predominant in determining the ethics of this area. we aren't going to bolt any cracks or any other routes that have obvious placements, but even if we did, it is our decision since we are the ONLY ones developing this canyon. end of rant
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wings
Feb 8, 2005, 5:59 PM
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I had some sympathy for you until you wrote your last post. All sympathy now gone. Next time, choose your words more wisely.
- Seyil
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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 8, 2005, 6:04 PM
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sorry about the unwise choice of words, i just can't stand when someone posts a simple question on this site and they are berated for anything and everything by the so called climbing community. i just wanted an answer to my question, not a lesson on ethics, or whether or not i am competent enough to bolt a route. i was just letting off a little steam and i chose some offensive words. i apologize for the toxicity of my last post
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kpalsson
Feb 8, 2005, 6:06 PM
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Why the hell should he? No-one else did. If he hadn't gotten in already, I was going to release some flames in the direction of people who feel that the most important part of someone asking a question is to click and read their profile. Oh and then to ignore the question, and just hurl insults.
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edge
Feb 8, 2005, 6:10 PM
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I think the sentiment was that if you were an inexperienced climber/bolter, then someone should call you on your plans. It was impossible to tell from your profile, and so they pointed out that you may not be qualified. You could have settled that with a few sentances and no vitriol and everyone would have moved along.
It would be far worse to entertain a n00b with information about bolting and help them potentially damage the rock. I think the climbing community should challenge those type of people.
I am glad you are not one of them. Good luck with the project.
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couchwarrior
Feb 8, 2005, 6:12 PM
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I agree this site is full of people that keep a copy of Freedom of the Hills in their basement crapper and think that qualifies them to dispense endless "advice." Their lives are lacking juice so they feel the need to piss on everyone else in an anonymous forum to compensate.
But you need to keep in mind that when you post a question here, you are going to get a bunch of useless and unfunny responses, a couple of useless but funny responses, and maybe one or two that address the spirit and point of your original message.
Best of luck with your bolting!
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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 8, 2005, 6:20 PM
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i know i am essentially hanging my nuts out to be smacked by anybody with a bat and an opinion when i post, i guess i am just a hopeless romantic in thinking that i actually might get an answer to a question i pose. i do appreciate that some of the people on this website are willing to explain their position and reason other than the simple "you are a noob and therefore unable to wipe your own ass with out the guidance and tutilege of someone who has been crapping for at least thirty years and have had to wipe with everything from pinecones to rocks to their own fingers." i guess it is my own fault for getting bored enough that i resort to posting something on here. big ups to the members who actually feel like contributing something instead of farting in the wind
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epic_ed
Feb 8, 2005, 6:21 PM
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Trey -- I think those were legit questions based on what little info we had available via your profile. You don't need anyone's approval to go slam in a bunch of bolts, but since this is a climbing "community" and your bolting can permanently affect all of us who wish to climb in the area you're developing, it's fair to field a few questions about your experience level. Heck, you're the one who opened the can of worms, bro.
Why does anyone care? Because many of us have seen areas botched and desicrated by someone who didn't have a clue, but they had a Bosch. You may not be in that group, and may very well have sound judgement and solid experience. But it looked like you didn't. You can understand the concern, can't you?
Ed
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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 8, 2005, 6:36 PM
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epic ed,
i can understand the concern and i agree that there is no good that can come from someone putting crappy bolted lines anywhere. i also appreciate that you are willing to actually voice concerns instead of just playing the ass u me game. i guess i got a little offended because i do have great respect for the rock and i am not into bolting just so my name can live on in guide books, and my friend and i are putting a great deal into whether or not we should bolt certain lines and faces. i just get rubbed the wrong way when people play that ass u me game. besides, maybe i am lying about my profile anyway. maybe i have been climbing since rocks first began forming and i just want to keep a low profile and stay humble
peace out napoleon
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tradklime
Feb 8, 2005, 8:21 PM
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Trey, thanks for pointing them out as a good deal to be had. I ordered a bunch myself. I am sure they will work just fine.
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lemon_boy
Feb 8, 2005, 9:58 PM
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i think brianinslc had a pretty good point about using stainless steel bolts with the hangers. if you use a standard (zinc) plated bolt there is the possibility of galvanic corrosion. if you look at the galvanic chart (check out http:/www.mcnallyinstitute.com/CDweb/g-html/g001.htm), the further apart the two materials are on the list, the greater the expected corrosion. i'm not sure which series of stainless steel is used for the hangers, but over a long period of time in an exposed environment, i feel it could potentially lead to problems. many people are under the misunderstanding that there needs to be moisture for the corrosion to happen, but this isn't so. it just needs oxygen. some people recommend encasing the bolt head/hanger area with epoxy or RTV, but that gets pretty messy.
I saw the hangers on that website and thought about buying them, but then looking at the price of stainless versus plated rawl bolts (especially when you start looking at 1/2" bolts) made me decide not to buy them. in the areas that i frequent, i feel that stainless is not that necessary. some may argue that they are always necessary, and i respect their opinion. another reason that i prefer the plated bolts is that they do not seem as sensitive to torque as stainless. in pretty much every application that i have ever used stainless or plated bolts, i have found that i break infinitely more stainless bolts than plated bolts while tightening. this might be a complete fluke, but...?
anyway, hope that gives you some useable feedback.
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mtengaio
Feb 8, 2005, 10:25 PM
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I ordered 40 of the hangers but have yet to use due to winter conditoins here in Idaho Falls, ID. We'll see how they work this spring.
By the way, I'm interested to know where you've been putting in new routes - I'm always up for quick road trip to Utah!
Peace.
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