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nrgclimber
Feb 9, 2005, 6:04 PM
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I have been climbing a lot of edgy face routes in Black Velvet Canyon lately and my first joint of my left big toe is killing me. I can hardly bend it after doing Prince of Darkness the other day. Does anyone else out there suffer from this problem and if so what did you do to aid the healing process? Thank you very much.
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overlord
Feb 9, 2005, 6:07 PM
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mine does too after climbing a lot of slab or even face. my sollution was to rest until the pain lessened. didnt hurt in a while though. must be getting stronger.
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tchamber
Feb 9, 2005, 6:20 PM
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I've had that issue particularly with new shoes or shoes that are too small. As the shoe stretches, it will begin to lessen the pain. If it's an old broken in pair of shoes... I don't know what to tell you. Oddly I've only had the pain in my left big toe, not my right, I always just assumed my left foot was a little bigger than my right...
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csproul
Feb 9, 2005, 6:22 PM
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I have had the same problem. I have been trying to use shoes with a stiffer rand, maybe a board last instead of a slip last, when doing lots of climbing with "big toe edges". This lets the rest of the shoe support your foot better instead of just standing on your big toe all day. The down sideis that you may lose some of the sentativity you get with softer shoes.
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altelis
Feb 9, 2005, 6:26 PM
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this might sound a little odd, but i have a solution to this problem, that at least helps me every time. when the pain starts, the next time my climbing shoes come off i grab my big toe above the joint and bend it to the inside of my foot, cracking that knuckle with a little force. immediate relief.
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wjca
Feb 9, 2005, 7:11 PM
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What Travis said, except its my right big toe. My right foot is little bigger than my left. I am about four months into a new pair of 5-10s that for a while I thought were causing permanent damage to my toe. They have since stretched and the problem went away.
They way I dealt with it until the shoe permantly stretched was to put my shoes in the floorboard of my car while I drove to the gym so that the heater would warm them up. That way, they were a little more pliable when I first put them on. After a few routes they would warm up further and start to stretch.
When I climbed outside, I had to deal with the pain because the shoes would get cold in my pack by the time I got to the climb. It took a while for my feet to warm them up enough
If nothing works, keep in mind that pain is just fear leaving the body. Why it choses to leave through your big toe is anyone's guess.
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jammer
Feb 9, 2005, 8:26 PM
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Never in the joint ... always in the toenail :(
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xjicex
Feb 9, 2005, 9:34 PM
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I have the big toe nail problem too, but only when i'm climbing
slab or something that i have to smear a lot on. I assume it has something
to do with not being able to bend my toes back (up) in climbing shoes.
resulting in my toe hitting perpendicular to the wall. to try and compensate
for this, i've been doing calf streches to try and allow for my ankle to pick
up the lost degrees that my shoes cost me in toe movement. no luck so far,
but i only came up with this last week.
joe
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annak
Feb 9, 2005, 10:07 PM
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There is an excellent simple stretch that targets this problem: tack your legs under you, curl your toes (as in the ground-facing dog), keep feet parallel so their inner edges tocuch each other all the way including the heels, and sit with your back straight on your heels. It works wonders for me!
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xjicex
Feb 9, 2005, 10:13 PM
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In reply to: There is an excellent simple stretch that targets this problem: tack your legs under you, curl your toes (as in the ground-facing dog), keep feet parallel so their inner edges tocuch each other all the way including the heels, and sit with your back straight on your heels. It works wonders for me!
how ever strange it is, I was doing what you have described as I clicked back to check this thread. glad to see I'm on the right track to less toenail injuries
:D
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skiman
Feb 27, 2005, 3:23 AM
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bending till it snaps in the second nukkelle works for me!!
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kimgraves
Feb 28, 2005, 4:55 PM
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I’ve been climbing in Scarpa Marathons for the past year and after a hard gym session, doing a lot of edgy stuff, my left big toe really hurt – both on top and at the tip under the nail. I at first thought it was a nail problem, but couldn’t find anything wrong. So after a month of putting it off I finally went to my beloved orthopedist, Dr. Bachrach, this morning who has treated all my climbing injuries – broken ankle, tweaked fingers/shoulder/knees, etc., etc. going on now 25 years.
I’ve brought my shoes with me. He looks at them and laughs. “Kim, if I traced your foot on the floor and then put this shoe over the outline, you’d see just how f*cked up (his words) this is.” “You have no degree of freedom in this shoe so your toe can’t adjust to the stresses you’re putting on it.” Diagnosis: inflamed joint. Treatment: ice; 600mg of Ibuprofen 4 times a day until resolution; bigger shoes.
“But Richard,” I say, “I need tight shoes to climb hard.” Laughing, he puts his arm around my shoulder and says, “Nice to see you, Kim.”
Best, Kim
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