Forums : Profile : passthepitonspete




Registered: Oct 9, 2001, 10:17 PM
Last Logon: Dec 1, 2003, 10:17 PM
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Personal Profile

Name: 'Pass the Pitons' Pete Zabrok
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<br><br>Like how's it goin', eh? I was <b>in Yosemite from September 15 to early November, 2003,</b> and enjoyed perhaps my most fun, exciting and rewarding season ever!<br> <br>It started off inauspiciously enough when I thought I would walk up and solo Gulf Stream. Holy frig - that's a Real Live Death Route! The temps were hovering around 100F, and I eventually chickened out and bailed. [I may be a chickensh*t, but at least I'm a <i><b>live</b></i> chickensh*t, know what I mean.....?] Gulf Stream is still on my "hit list", but I'll have to climb it with a partner. My solo tagging system is just a bit too terrifying to leave hanging in the middle of a "real A4" pitch, and if I have someone to zip me some gear, maybe I'll have a decent shot at it.<br> <br>So after rapping off, I packed up me pigs, and by process of elimination [I had climbed or soloed most everything else in the area] I ended up down at <b>Eagle's Way.</b> And hot damn, if'n it warn't fun to climb a route where I wasn't <i>scared</i> all the time ..... Sheesh. Eagle's Way was my <b>eighth solo of El Cap,</b> and at one point, there were <b>five</b> soloists at work on the Southeast Face of El Cap. And doggone if we didn't all make the summit! How often does <b>that</b> happen, eh?<br> <br>After a few days' rest and a few pints [Guinness, Ben & Jerry's] I hooked up with Shawn Desjardins <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/users/list.php?UserID=pirate"><b>[pirate]</b></a> and John-Paul Brackin <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/users/list.php?UserID=diesel_smoke"><b>[diesel_smoke]</b></a> - Yes! He's real! - for our ascent of <b>Never Never Land</b> over on the Southwest Face of El Cap, left of Dihedral Wall and right of the West Buttress. It was quite the full-on epic adventure, and took us a bit longer than expected - not cuz the climbing was hard, but because of the hauling! Never Never Land was my <b>twenty-fifth ascent of El Cap by my twenty-fifth route,</b> and I have now spent well over two hundred nights on the side of the Big Stone!<br> <br><b>Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!</b> [Diabolical Dr. Evil Laughter] I emailed <b>Hans Florine</b> to ask him to update his website, and when he learned that <a href="http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/compare.htm"><b>I had just eclipsed his 'Number of El Cap Routes Done' standing,</b></a> he wrote,<br> <br><font size=1>"Way to go Pete! I'll be motivated to keep up with you. Give me a month or two into next season. Til then you're the leader. Hans"</font size><br> <br>Note: Hans might be motivated to keep up with me in terms of number of routes done, but in no way am I motivated to [try to] keep up with him in terms of speed. Sheesh.<br><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=21214><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos//212/21214.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>If you happen to be in the neighbourhood,<br>stop by for morning coffee!</font size></i></center text> <br><br>This spring, I was also in Yosemite, this time <b>from May 15 til June 22,</b> and had a superb time! I will be making a post shortly to thank the dozens of people who helped me out - schlepping pigs for me, buying me beer and pizza, giving me rides - <b>thanks so much, everyone!</b> I'm planning to write a <b>thank you note,</b> which I'll link here as soon as I complete it. In the meantime, here is a <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27282&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=101"><b>quick thank you note</b></a> to everyone who helped me this spring! I am flattered beyond words at everyone's kindness, and I offer my <b>sincere and heartfelt thanks.</b><br> <br>During my <b>spring 2003 Yosemite season,</b> Chad [timpanogos] and I made a <b>three-day ascent of The Prow</b> on Washington Column. Chad did a <b>superb job</b> on this - his first big wall! Having made the summit of a big wall by legit means, Dr. Piton hereby promotes Chad from <b>Big Wall Theorist</b> to <b>Big Wall Gumby.</b> [I am not quite sure what comes next after <b>BWG,</b> as I am still struggling to reduce my <b>wank factor</b> enough to actually qualify!]<br> <br>After this [and a few beers] Tom [apollodorus] and I made a <b>fourteen-day ascent of Bermuda Dunes</b> on the Southwest Face of El Cap [VI, 5.9, A4+] which involved a substantial amount of rebolting of the existing belays, some of which were virtually useless. I was surprised by a few <b>Pretty Darn Hard</b> pitches towards the top!<br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=16531><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/165/16531.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Two Crusty Wall Rats after Bermuda Dunes</font size></i></center text> <br>The photo above was taken by Hillary in the parking lot after we got down from the <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=563"><b>East Ledges descent from El Cap.</b></a> We look pretty <b>knackered,</b> eh? It's quite a punishing descent, but if you want to read detailed beta about the <b>Better Way</b> to get down off El Cap, please click the link.<br> <br>Tom and I enjoyed perfect weather and lots of fun over the two weeks we spent on the wall, even if the bastard did drink all my Kessler at The Alcove! [Don't worry, we had plenty of beer left, and a Big Wall Wine Bottle, I believe.] Other [mis]adventures included some wide-ass offwidths, me leading the wrong pitch[!], and a <b>Big Wall Campfire,</b> thus continuing to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=2925"><b>push the limits of Big Wall Leisure</b></a> like never before. Hmmm, what <b>will</b> I do next? The <b>First Solo Trombone Ascent</b> of El Cap perhaps? [Don't laugh, it's on my tick list, it's just that I have to carry the damn thing through the airport. If anyone could <b>bring me a 'bone,</b> I'd take it up for sure. I really <b>can</b> play the thing ... honest!] In fact, I have a standing invitation from Dudley, the piano player at the Ahwahnee, to gig with them if ever I have a horn in Yosemite.<br> <br>If you still haven't seen it yet, you can click here if you would like to view a <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=5017"><b>cool PHOTO ESSAY of our recent ascent of Scorched Earth,</b></a> a seldom-repeated <b>A4+</b> on the Southeast Face of El Cap. Tom and I will be preparing another photo essay like this one for Bermuda Dunes.<br> <br>Finally I completed an <b>eight-day solo of Lost In America</b> on the Southeast Face of El Cap [VI, 5.10R, A3+] where I was obliged [albeit briefly, and terrifyingly!] to <b>come out of Free Climbing Retirement.</b> [Ivo was right....]<br> <br>I'm writing a fun <b>trip report</b> that I hope you'll find amusing, which includes my observations of the <b>brothers Huber</b> as they blasted by me making their <b>speed record on Zodiac.</b> Please stay tuned...<br> <br><br><br><br>Do you have your new <b>Yosemite Valley Free Climbs</b> guidebook yet? It's written by <b>Chris Mac and friends,</b> and I am its <b>Editor!</b> <P align=center><a href=http://www.supertopo.com/packs/yofreeclimbs.html><img src="http://www.supertopo.com/images/cover_thumbnails/YFC_cover_final2.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Click the photo for further information!</font size></i></center text> <br><b>Yosemite Valley Free Climbs</b> includes over 230 of the best routes in Yosemite Valley from 16-pitch trad climbs to one-pitch sport routes. While many hard Yosemite testpieces are included, this book focuses on topropes, crags, and multi-pitch climbs in the 5.4-5.9 range. Includes formerly obscure climbs to provide more options for avoiding crowds. As in all SuperTopo books, the authors personally climbed and documented each climb with meticulous care to create the most detailed and accurate topos ever published.<br><br><br><br><br> <br>Have you checked out <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/view.php?ID=53"><b>Dr. Piton's Ultimate Big Wall Checklist</b></a> lately? Evidently many of you have! It amazes me that this article has received over <b>eight <i>thousand</i> hits [!]</b> and continues to be RC.com's <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?By=Visits"><b>third-most visited article.</b></a> I recently added a bunch of <b>fun photos,</b> so if you haven't seen it lately, be sure to have a look! I'll be revising and updating it for next spring's Yosemite trip. Please - feel free to <b>print it off,</b> and use it as your own big wall checklist. And if there's something you don't understand, you can always <b>Ask Dr. Piton.</b><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=12552><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/125/12552.jpg"></a><p> <center text><i><font size=1><b><font color=red>Wee-Wee the Big Wall Crab</font color></b> enjoys his Ultimate Big Wall Bivi</font size></i></center text> <br>Speaking of which, I am <b>returning to Yosemite</b> and plan to be there from <b>mid-May til late June, 2004.</b> As always, there will be numerous opportunities for <b>Dr. Piton Mini-Big Wall Tutorials</b> where you can come out to <b>learn stuff.</b> And learning stuff is a <b>VGT.</b><br> <br>This year I had the opportunity to share big wall tips - from the Mountain Shop to the parking lot, and from the base of El Cap to its summit. I taught friends at the LeCompte Boulder, and gave several on-the-wall sessions while fixing pitches on El Cap. If you <i>really</i> want to learn stuff, come help me climb some pitches. We'll get ya up on the rock, and you can see first-hand how all this stuff works.<br> <br>This year, I was delighted to meet dozens of people from RC.com! I'm always tickled when people recognize me and say, "Oh, so <i>you're</i> "Pass the Pitons" Pete....." My next question is usually something along the lines of, "what's your user name, and which of my big wall tips do you find the most useful?" Perhaps half the people I meet are "lurkers" - you guys need to get yerself a user name, sign onto this place, and join the fun, eh? I'm planning on writing a <b>thank you note</b> to everyone who gave me a hand - and there were so many! - and which I'll link here as soon as I finish it. Thanks again, everyone!<br> <br>If you're trying to <b>find me in Yosemite,</b> my home is the <b>Curry Village parking lot</b> where you can usually locate me in the mornings making coffee at the bear box where I store my food. [I am fortunate enough to have a friend who stores my climbing gear for me, since I usually don't have wheels] If I'm not in the parking lot or grabbing a coffee from the Coffee Corner, you could look for me on the Pizza Deck in the evening. And if you <b>still</b> can't find me, then I'm probably up on the wall, and you can look for my <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=7937"><b>Crab-O-Ledge</b></a> high on El Cap!<br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=3004><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/30/3004.jpg"></a><p> <center text><i><font size=1>Pete and his <b><font color=red>Crab-O-Ledge,</font color></b><br><a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?AscentID=250"><b>Jolly Roger</b></a> - September, 1999</font size></i></center text> <br>It's usually not too hard to spot my ledge up on the side of El Cap - go to the Meadows and look up. It like, kinda looks like a Hoser flag, eh? But it's not - it's a <b><font color=red>CRAB!</b></font color> Sheesh. [The fact that my portaledge greatly resembles a Canadian flag from a distance is nothing more than happenstance and the purest of co-incidence - never for a moment would I hint, imply or suggest that this is <b>precisely</b> what I wanted.]<br><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=10659><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/106/10659.jpg"></a><p> <center text><i><font size=1>Tom belays Pete from the <b><font color=red>Crab-O-Ledge,</font color></b><br><a href="http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/p5roof.html"><b>Scorched Earth</b></a> - September, 2002<br>Photo by William Zittrich</i></center text></font size> <br><br><br><br><br>Are you a <b>Big Wall Theorist?</b> Does your <b>Wank Factor</b> spiral out of control? Do you <b>dare to dream</b> to reach the summit, and to <b>learn the Better Way?</b> Then you should <b>ASK DR PITON.</b><BR> <br>Then again, maybe you should <b><font size=+1>HIRE DR. PITON</b></font size> to take you up a big wall. This way, you can "learn the ropes" right in the field, and hugely short-circuit your learning curve. Think about the cost vs. the benefit - attempting a big wall has a huge cost, and if you're new at the game, has a high rate of failure. Why not guarantee your success instead, and have a heckuva lot of <b>fun</b> at the same time? Believe me when I tell you I have enough gear to outfit both of us!<br> <br>OK, OK, so maybe I can't <b>guarantee</b> we'll make the summit, but my <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?UserID=passthepitonspete"><b>record of success</b></a> speaks for itself. Let's just say you'll get a better guarantee than if I take you fishing.... However, if my <b>dad</b> takes you fishing, you'll get a better guarantee. Man, can that dude catch fish - check out this BFW [Big Frickin' Walleye] he caught!!<br> <br><center text><a href="http://forums.quintefishing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=354"><img src="http://www.quintefishing.com/Dads15Pounder-Annotatedbolditalics.jpg"></a></center text> <br><center text><font size=1><i>When I grow up, I wanna be <b>just like my dad</b><br><b>Click the photo</b> to read the story of this <b>"Fish of a Lifetime"!</b></font></center text></i><br> <br>Not only is my dad a helluva fine fisherman, but he even <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=24423"><b>rescued me ice climbing</b></a> last winter. And this past spring, he <b>"carried his age"</b> for a mile down the portage trail on our annual canoeing and fishing trip to Algonquin Park. Yup - <b>78 pounds!</b><br> <br><br><br><b><i>Hey!</i></b> Like, have you got any <b>"frequent flyer airline points"</b> you could toss my way? Get me to your wall, and I'm all yours..... I can provide you <b>client references</b> if you wish. If you're interested, let's talk - I'm a salesman, and I make my living by cutting deals. If you genuinely want to learn how to climb big walls with me, then most likely we can work something out. If you don't have any "flyer points," you could always give me a bit of money for groceries and beer, eh? I am very much interested in taking people climbing in other cool areas - <b>Zion, Looking Glass</b> - wherever! You can click here to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44187&start=33"><b>read a recent reference.</b></a><br><br> <br><center text><a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=7224"><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/72/7224.jpg"></a></center text> <br><center text><font size=1><i><b>Learn Stuff the EASY WAY</b><br>Put your <b>Wall Doctor</b> to work for <b>you!</b><br> Photo by <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/users/list.php?UserID=spike"><b>spike</b></a></font></center text></i><br><br> <br>Do you <b>need help solving wall climbing problems?</b> Then you've come to the right man, because I just so happen to be a <b>Wall Doctor.</b> If you hand me a pen and a paper, or gimme some slings and carabiners and cord, chances are I can help you <b>reduce your wank factor</b> and <b>eliminate clusterf*ckage.</b> Note: The addition of a <b>Sierra Nevada Porter</b> to the above mix will expedite the process immeasurably. <b>[HINT]</b><br> <br>For those who want to <b>see the systems in action,</b> there will be ample opportunity next spring in <b>May and June, 2004</b>. For little more than <b>thirty minutes of back-breaking torture</b> you can give your <b>weakling Wall Doctor</b> a hand by schlepping his pigs to the base, thus sparing him the effort. This year we took the mini-tutorials to the walls, and several people joined me in helping to <b>fix and haul</b> the first few pitches. There was plenty of help and the loads were lightweight! So grab a pig and come join the party, eh? If you've never been to a <b>portaledge party on the Big Stone,</b> here's your chance!<br> <br>You can click <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/dG9waWM9MTAxMDImZm9ydW09NDM="><b>here</b></a> and <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=14107&forum=43"><b>here</b></a> to read about previous [and very successful!] <b>Dr. Piton Mini-Big Wall Tutorials.</b> Please check my <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22175&sid=da5ce34d229ebc50d916e884c2d095bd"><b>Index to Dr. Piton Stuff</b></a> for further details.<br> <br>In spring 2004, Tom and I hope to climb <b>Son of Heart,</b> where we can again put to work Tom's very bitchin' <a href="http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/valleygiant.html"><b>9" and 12" Valley Giant Cams.</b></a> We might be interested in <b>taking along a third person</b> to help with the hauling and cleaning, so if you're interested, drop me a note, eh?<br> <br><br><br><center text><font size=1><i>"I may not go rock climbing any more, but BOY, do I ever know <b>how!</b>"</i> Chongo</font size></center text><br> <br><br><br><br>Dr. Piton is <b>HITTING THE MAGAZINES</b> in a <b>Big Time Way!</b> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/view.php?ID=196><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/104/10405.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Feature article from <b>Gripped Magazine</b></font size></i></center text> <br>It is a relief that I am finally getting some <b>paying gigs.</b> You can either <b>click the photo above,</b> or you can click here to <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vYXJ0aWNsZXMvdmlldy5waHA/SUQ9MTk2"><b>read the feature article in Gripped Magazine.</b></a><br> <br><br>Last month in Yosemite after the Huber brothers' slide show, I had the opportunity to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=20763"><b>speak with John Yates about product design.</b></a> John never even mentioned to me that <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43791&start=0"><b>my photo appears on the Yates Climbing Equipment 2003 catalogue.</b></a> So imagine my surprise when I came home to find this! [Thanks to me mate Jesse]<br><br> <br><center text><a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=39265&start=46"><img src="http://jesse.avlug.org/images/pete.jpg"></a> <br><font size=1><i>What a <b>poser</b> of <b>Hoser,</b> eh?<br>Please click the photo to read about the <b>Huber Brothers slideshow</b> </font></center text></i><br> <br><br><p align=center><a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vcGhvdG9zLnBocD9BcmNoaXZlSUQ9QUxMJlBob3RvZ3JhcGhlcj1wYXNzdGhlcGl0b25zcGV0ZQ=="><b><font size=+2><i>SHORTCUT TO MY PHOTOS</i></b></a></font size></p> <p align=center><a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/dG9waWM9MjIxNzUmZm9ydW09MTkmMTA="><b><font size=+2><i>INDEX TO DR.PITON STUFF</i></b></a></font size></p><br> <br><br>Like, this is <b>me,</b> eh?<br> <br>Note: This getup is nothing more than an <b>illusion</b> intended to convince others that I actually <b>do</b> work from time to time...<br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=7867><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/78/7867.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>What a <b>Hoser,</b> eh?</font size></i></center text> <br>The <b>tie</b> I am wearing in this photo was a gift from my dear friend <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/bW9kZT12aWV3dG9waWMmdG9waWM9MjIzNTcmZm9ydW09MjMmc3RhcnQ9NDU="><b>Andria Ligas,</b></a> who was killed on December 22, 2002 while riding her bicycle in Tucson, Arizona. How I miss my <b>Cragchica!</b> {sniffle}<br> <br>Besides the link directly above, I have posted a few more <b>stories and pictures of Andria</b> which you can find <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/bW9kZT12aWV3dG9waWMmdG9waWM9MjIzNTcmZm9ydW09MjMmc3RhcnQ9NzU="><b>here</b></a> and <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/bW9kZT12aWV3dG9waWMmdG9waWM9MjIzNTcmZm9ydW09MjMmc3RhcnQ9MTA1"><b>here</b></a> and <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/bW9kZT12aWV3dG9waWMmdG9waWM9MjIzNTcmZm9ydW09MjMmc3RhcnQ9MTM1"><b>here</b></a> and <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/bW9kZT12aWV3dG9waWMmdG9waWM9MjIzNTcmZm9ydW09MjMmc3RhcnQ9MTUw"><b>here.</b></a><br> <br><b>Romans 8:28</b><br><br> <br><br><br><br>I started climbing when I was 19 in <b>1979,</b> but I <b>retired from free climbing</b> a few years ago. It's <b>big walls and aid</b> from now on!<br> <br>I've done <b>25 ascents of El Cap</b> by <b>25 different routes</b> including <b>8 solo ascents,</b> and have climbed it by some of its <b>hardest lines</b> (<a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vYXNjZW50L2luZGV4LnBocD9Bc2NlbnRJRD0zNTE="><b><font color="bright green">Reticent Wall,</font></b></a> <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vYXNjZW50L2luZGV4LnBocD9Bc2NlbnRJRD0yNTA="><b>Jolly Roger,</b></a> <a href="/exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vYXNjZW50L2luZGV4LnBocD9Bc2NlbnRJRD0zNDk="><b>Native Son,</b></a> etc.) I have [so far] spent <b>210 NIGHTS ON EL CAP,[!]</b> not counting base and summit bivis. Add some of the Grade V's I've done, and it's well over two hundred nights. This can be a good thing, but this can be a bad thing, too. It depends on how you view living two percent of your life beneath, on, or above a big wall.....<br> <br>You can click here to visit Hans Florine's website, and <a href="http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/compare.htm"><b>see where I stack up</b></a> compared to the other El Cap addicts!<br> <br>I'm active in the exploration and survey of <a href="http://www.caves.org/project/roppel/"><b>Roppel Cave</b></a> which is located in central Kentucky, <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=3310><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/33/3310.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>If you love to grovel, then <b>Roppel Cave</b> is the place for you!</font size></i></center text> <br>and is part of the <a href="http://www.nps.gov/maca/home.htm"><b>Mammoth Cave System,</b></a> the world's longest. I recently returned from a successful <b>18-hour exploration and survey trip</b> where we <b>discovered another thousand feet</b> of new passage! Woo-hoo! I had to make survey shots with my compass in a two-foot-high passage while lying in 20" of water! Sheesh. Fortunately, the passage ended, so I don't have to go back...<br> <br>This is a photo of me taken in <b>Actun Lubul Ha,</b> a cave in <b>Belize</b> which we explored in December, 1979. Note my <b>stunning physique</b> and <b>contemporary fashion statement.</b><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=10515><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/105/10515.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Un -<b> Belize</b> - able.....</font size></i></center text> <br>I play <b>trombone</b> and <b>keyboards,</b> and have been known to sing a little bit of "legit" stuff like <b>Messiah</b> by Handel. I am immensely enjoying my <b>Free Climbing Retirement.</b> <br> <br>I'm a <b>self-employed financial advisor</b> in Oakville, Ontario, which means that when it comes to getting time off work, I have a <b>very understanding boss!</b> If you need <b>life insurance</b> that will actually <b>pay</b> if you <b>die climbing,</b> then you should <b>email me.</b><br> <br>I'm also a pretty avid <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3Lm9udGFyaW9maXNoaW5nLm5ldC9waG90b3Mvd2FsbGV5ZS5odG1s"><b><font color ="green">fisherman</font></b></a> and canoeist - Ontario has some of the best fishing and <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3Lm1uci5nb3Yub24uY2EvTU5SL3BhcmtzL2FsZ28uaHRt"><b>canoeing</b></a> in the world.<br> <br>I'm always looking for <b>partners for fishing and canoeing,</b> and also <b>experienced wall partners in Yosemite.</b> I'm in Yosemite for all of May and all of September most years. I solo a lot because I <b>can,</b> and I don't <b>need</b> a partner. That being said, I sometimes prefer to have a partner.<br> <br>My <b>home</b> is my <b>portaledge</b> and the door is always open - so if you're <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vcGhvdG9zLnBocD9BY3Rpb249TGlzdFBob3RvJlBob3RvSUQ9MTc4OA=="><b>in the neighbourhood,</b></a> please drop by and <b>enjoy a cup of coffee</b> with me in the morning.<br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=21215><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos//212/21215.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>I'm a bit <b><font color=red>CRABBY</b></font color><br>before I get my <b>morning coffee!</b></font size></i></center text> <br>By the time afternoon rolls around, I may actually solo a pitch or two, so if you missed me for coffee, you can <b>join me for a beer </b>in the evening. I'm not very hard to find this time of day - just listen for the <b>AC/DC music</b> blaring from my <b>ghetto blaster!</b> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=5550><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/55/5550.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Olde English 800 - the Wall Rats' Brew of Choice</font size></i></center text> <br>I do a bit of <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/dD0yODE1NiZzdGFydD01"><b>GUIDING</b></a> from time to time, so if you want to learn the <b>Better Way,</b> or are interested in getting me to <b>take you up a wall,</b> then please <b>email me</b> at the email address above. Please click the link in this paragraph if you would like to know more about my guiding philosphy.<br> <br>If you are interested in <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3Lmd4LnN0YXJ2ZWRyb2Nrb3V0Zml0dGVycy5jb20vY2dpLWJpbi9taXZhP01lcmNoYW50Mi9tZXJjaGFudC5tditTY3JlZW49Q1RHWSZTdG9yZV9Db2RlPUcmQ2F0ZWdvcnlfQ29kZT1QSQ=="><b>buying my photos for your publication,</b></a> you will be happy to know I sell them cheaply!<br> <br>I'm working on posting a bunch of <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vcGhvdG9zLnBocD9NZXRob2Q9QnlVc2VyJkFjdGlvbj1WaWV3JlVzZXJJRD1wYXNzdGhlcGl0b25zcGV0ZQ=="><b>photos,</b></a> routes and <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vYXNjZW50L2luZGV4LnBocD9Vc2VySUQ9cGFzc3RoZXBpdG9uc3BldGU="><b>trip reports</b></a> from the big walls of <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vcm91dGVzL2xpc3RBcmVhLnBocD9BcmVhSUQ9MjA2Nw=="><b>Yosemite</b></a> in the <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vcm91dGVzL2xpc3RBcmVhLnBocD9BcmVhSUQ9OTk1"><b>El Capitan section.</b></a> You can also find my <b>El Cap Trip Reports</b> linked at the bottom of this profile.<br> <br>If you have any queries about El Cap, big walls, or life in general, you can always <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXdmb3J1bS5waHA/Zm9ydW09MTkmMjYx"><b>"Ask Dr. Piton."</b></a><br> <br>You will be <b>happy</b> to learn that I have <b>finally</b> completed my <a href="exit.php?url=d3d3LnJvY2tjbGltYmluZy5jb20vZm9ydW1zL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/dG9waWM9MjIxNzUmZm9ydW09MTkmMTA="><b>INDEX TO DR. PITON STUFF.</B></A> This will help you to <b>find stuff</b> that I've written, which I believe to be a <b>VGT.</b><br> <br>Oh yeah - in case you didn't notice him in the photos above, my partner is <font color="red"><b>Wee-Wee the Big Wall Crab.</b></font><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=5472><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/54/5472.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Love me, love my <b><font color="red">crab</b></font color></font size></i></center text> <br>Not only is he my climbing partner, but <b><font color="red">Wee-Wee</b></font> appears with me on my <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=3493"><b>Canadian passport photo.</b></a><br> <br>Cheers,<br> <br><b>"Pass the Pitons" Pete</b><br> <br>aka <b>Dr. Piton</b><br><br> P.S. <b><font color="red">Wee-Wee the Big Wall Crab</b></font> is good friends with <b><font color="turquoise">Pee-Wee the Ice Climbing Crayfish,</b></font> <P align=center><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/55/5592.jpg"><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Why would anyone want to climb ice? Sheesh</font size></i></center text> <br>a fellow <b>Hoser</b> and <b>climbing crustacean</b> who is earning quite a reputation in the Canadian Rockies by setting new standards in <b>Exoskeleton Ascents.</b> <br><br><br><br><b><i>Quotes of the day:</b></i><br> <br><font size=1><br>"So you <i>are</i> real..... {hug}"<br> <br>"You know, I keep waiting for the weight of the pig to come onto my harness, but I guess it's not going to happen, huh?"<br><br><br><br><br> <br>"Peter, vhat is zis vord, 'cussing'....? Vell, if you do not like ze language, you can take your beer, and drink it outzide on ze deck!"<br><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=20762><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/207/20762.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>After the <b>Huber brothers'</b> slide show,<br>Alex, Pete and Thomas discuss appropriateness of language</font size></i></center text> <br><br><br><br><br><br> <br>"You are a middle-aged divorcee who sells life insurance in Canada ... You&#8217;re bad news. You&#8217;re an old, lecherous, fruity coot who spends hours in front of his laptop as his alter ego, Dr. Piton ... because you&#8217;re old, perverted &#8230; queer."<br> <br>"Our compatibility is <b>ageless</b>. If you took our souls out and put them in jars, you could not tell them apart."<br> <br>"When you can be silly, you have achieved total confidence. You know you expect people to shake their heads in amazement, annoyance or confusion. You are a performer, being judged, and you are totally comfortable with that! Confidence is an incredible turn on. Baby, you've got confidence!"<br> <br>"You're my <b>Man In A Bottle.</b> In case of emergency, break glass."<br><br><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=9546><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/95/9546.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Save water, drink beer - <b>PITON BEER!</b><br>Click the photo for details</font size></i></center text> <br><br><br> <br>"As far as me being a pus*y; DUDE! ever look in the mirror? You are a wee little man who sells insurance for a living! You even screw people for a living!! I know you think you are the best, and have legions of beginners pinching your nipple's [sic] and carrying all your stuff(what pus*y can't even carry their own stuff?) But you should know that there is an even bigger legion out here who think you are the biggest idiot ever to tie in."<br> <br>[Note: I am a big wall soloist. I am never tied into the end of my rope.]<br><br><br><br><br> <br>"It should only feel like you won the lottery if it had anything to do with <b>luck!</b>"<br> <br>"It's so liberating - there's no restriction of movement! Now that I've <b>climbed without pants,</b> I'm addicted!"<br> <br>"<b>Mmmmmmmmm</b> - coffee....."<br> <br>"Why can't <b>he</b> be more like <b>you?!"</b><br><br><br><br><br> <br>"talk to pete's partners on the reticent. i believe he was not allowed to lead anything after pitch 10 or something as he over stated his abilites to his partners. this has happend [sic] on a few other walls, where he was an actual liability and was asked to onlu [sic] jug for the safety of the team."<br> <br>[Note: One wonders how I managed to solo El Cap - <b>eight</b> frickin' times! Sheesh.]<br><br><br><br><br> <br>"You are sweet though! You are! Sooooooo sweet and i think i will lose my teeth with you! You are ... sweeter than honey... Oh boy! My dentist will freak!"<br><br><br><br><br> <br>"Ah have used up <b>sooooo</b> many batteries in mah VAH-brator...."<br><br> <P align=center><a href=http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=7868><img src="http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos/78/7868.jpg"></a><p> <center text><font size=1><i>Proud to be a Merrican!<br>Dr. Piton Contemplates his Wall Flower</font size></i></center text> <br><br><br>"How <b>DO</b> I do it?!"</font size><br><br><br><br><br>

Climbing Profile

Skills:
Lead | Follow
City: Oakville, Ont, Canada, eh?
State: Unknown
Country: Unknown


Photos

I'm a bit <b><font color=red>CRABBY</b></font color> before my coffee Morning Coffee at the Pinnacle of Hammerdom - SW Face El Cap Select Your Wall Partners By The Pound Reflections of El Cap 2:1 Mechanical Advantage Demonstrated Anna Demonstrates the Better Way to Clean Dr. Piton and John Yates Talk Shop



Ascent Log Go View Full Log (27) The 5 most recent ascents recorded by a user in our Routes Database are shown on the user Profile.

Date Level Grade Route Rating
2003-10-11 Onsight Onsight A3 Never Never Land 0 out of 5 stars
2003-09-25 Onsight Onsight A3 Eagle's Way 0 out of 5 stars
2003-06-12 Red Point Red Point A4 Lost in America 0 out of 5 stars
2003-05-23 Red Point Red Point A4+ Bermuda Dunes 0 out of 5 stars
2002-09-26 Onsight Onsight A4+ Scorched Earth 0 out of 5 stars
2002-09-10 Onsight Onsight A3+ Lunar Eclipse 0 out of 5 stars
2002-06-11 Onsight Onsight A4 The Shortest Straw 0 out of 5 stars



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