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Reviews by coylec (29)

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Robot Cams (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.23/5 Average Rating : 4.23/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: coylec, 2004-04-08


For cost, nothing beats the Robot. While the 4 and 5 are well documented walkers, its easily remedied by good placements and long runners. In terms of starting a rack, they are perfect. Not only are they cheap, they compliment smaller BD Camalots: Robot 3 fits between BD1 and BD2, while Robot 2 fits right belew BD 1. The smaller Robots complement Aliens and Metolius TCUs also: the .25 Robot fits between 3/8 (Blue) and 1/2 (Green), the .50 Robot fits between 1/2 (Green) and 3/4 (Yellow), and the .75 Robot fits between 3/4 (Yellow) and 1 (Red). They also complement the Metolius TCUs: my 00 fits at the bottom (with Black Alien) while my TCU4 (Red) fits between Robot 1 and 2. One downside is there are gaps in the range, Robot 1 to 2 has a small gap (which really needs to be filled (TCU 4 (Red) works great).


Mantra S (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: coylec, 2004-03-19


I love these shoes. They conform to my feet, provide great friction and edging and are extremely light weight. I've used them for slab and face climbing with excellent results. They are made entirely of lorica, meaning they don't have the problems of leather. The only drawback is that the lower lorica tends to pick up colors from painted surfaces (I also climb indoors on a 'natural face' wall). And, I use them for trad, so its not just sporties that get cool shoes. don't recommend for aid.

The break-in period on these shoes is brutal, but worth it. The lorica requires a slightly longer break in period (don't buy three days before your big trip), but it has rewarded me in the long run.


Momentum Harness (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Fixed

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: coylec, 2004-03-02


This was my first harness. It is a great beginner's harness, because it has all the features one needs to being to lead, but not too much extra.

The gear loops are adequate for a light rack or sport climbing, but quickly get bogged down. Each of the four main gear loops comfortably holds 6-7 ovals (maybe 7-8 light Ds). The rear (small) loop holds about 3. The harness is light in the padding, but is enough. I have taken several falls in this harness, including a 25 footer. The impact was severe, though I did not feel any discomfort from the harness, nor did I suffer any bruises.

The lack of adjustable leg loops means that it not comfortable for hanging belays, however, few beginning climbers will be in hanging belays, IMHO. They are fine for hanging out at a belay station for a while though.

Overall, the harness rates a three on my scale. However, if you are a beginner looking for your first harness, this one is a great deal looking at price and function. It's not going to be appropriate for Zodiac, but it will be good enough for sport routes and small multipitch trad.

If you use a gear sling (which I don't), you may find that its more useful for longer (i upgraded to an Astroman because of the lack of gear loops).

The sizing runs a little large, so try it out in the store first. Caveat: I like my harnesses suffocatingly tight.

PM if you have more questions.


Ecrin Roc Helmet (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.64/5 Average Rating : 4.64/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: coylec, 2004-03-02


This helmet is the best in the business for several reasons.

First, it is a great balance between weight, protection and durablity. While there are numerous helmets lighter, they don't offer the durablity of this helmet -- while I have no direct experience, I know of a number of friends who have used the "1-impact" helmets -- one broke his helmet by sitting on it, accidently.

Second, it is extremely adjustable: you can modify where the chin-strap comes down on both sides, the tightness of the headband and the tightness of the lower-rear neck area support. The wide range means I can wear in in the summer against skin or a baseball cap or in the winter under a wool cap. While it is difficult to adjust the chinstrap/ear while being worn, the more common adjustments to the tightness of the fit can be adjusted with one hand while climbing.

Third, it is very adaptable. It includes 4 mount points for attaching a headlamp: I have used both single band (sweatband type) headlamps (Tikka) and dual band (Zoom) with it.

While the price is up there, it is going to last the entirity of its useable period. Plus, its quite stylish! I own a white one, but I'm going to get either yellow or red next time.

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