Gear : Reviews
Reviews by davidji (10)
Grigri Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.24/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: davidji, 2004-06-02
Great device. Maybe I'm being unfair giving it a 5, when I dinged the ATC-XP for it's weight in a different review. But this thing does it all, for single ropes anyway. Great belay device for sport-climbing. Passable rope-solo device. Use it to replace your bottom ascender. Great rap device (although a little bouncy in some conditions). There may be new competitors now, but at least at one time this was the only serious choice for aid belaying, and for running belay while simulclimbing.
ATC-XP Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.46/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: davidji, 2004-06-02
This is a really good ATC. The best I've used. Locks hard, feeds & raps smoothly. If it were lighter it would get a 5.
B-52 Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.48/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: davidji, 2004-06-02
I guess I've got to give this a 4. Better than just good, since I always carry it for parties of 3, and nearly always belay the second on doubles with it. Not really an all purpose device: not for fat, fuzzy gym ropes. Also isn't the hardest locking device for catching a fall on one skinny half-rope. If it locked a little harder I'd give it 5.
Better than Reverso for skinny ropes. Don't know how it compares to Reversino.
Better than Reverso for skinny ropes. Don't know how it compares to Reversino.
Variable Controller
Average Rating : 3.19/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: davidji, 2004-06-02
This modified Sticht plate is OK, but I prefer every tube-type (ATC-style) device I've used over this. It seems to me they can lock up harder (than the VC on the higher friction side), and heat up less on rappel.
