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Reviews by holdplease2 (19)

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Flex Cams popular Average Rating = 3.79/5 Average Rating : 3.79/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: holdplease2, 2003-10-01


Well, I bought this cam to replace a DMM which was lost from being dropped and bootied before I could get back to it.

Long story short, I should have just repurchased what I had in the first place.

This cam is mid-sized and does what it says it does, works like a cam. However, I find the trigger less friendly than certain other single-stem cams, the metal seems harder than other cams (is this really true? if so, less likely to let the rock "bite in")

It is not overly heavy, but not overly light. If I am goingto leave one of my cams in this size back in the car, it is this one.

It just isn't like a BD or friend...and for not being like a BD or friend, it dosn't have enough other benefits to justify it...like lightness or uniqueness. Was it cheaper? I don't recall.


Ultralight TCU (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: holdplease2, 2003-10-01


These cams are pretty sweet. In the smaller sizes, they supplement Aliens nicely, they have a narrow head, but a different lobe placment, so that you can really optomize your placement.

In the larger sizes, they work nice in pin scars or weird sandstone pods.

Somewhat limited vs the Aliens due to the double stem, which limits placements whichrequire a more "vertical" orientation of the lobes.

I would not buy these until you've got yer aliens.


Big Bros (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: holdplease2, 2003-10-01


Well, after a couple of weeks in veda-woo-hoo! I landed myself a set of these.

Then I tried to climb with them. Perhaps practice makes perfect, but I do find myself wishing that they were all the same size so I could build a coffee table out of them.

Next trip to Wyoming I will get them out again.

I will also note, that if the wide crack is too irregular in size or flares out or in, good luck. It seems to me that you pretty much need the "right" crack for these, either that, or way more skill than I have.

They do work a wide range, though, and tangle far less than a big cam would on a rack.


4CUs (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: holdplease2, 2003-10-01


These were my first-ever set of cams!!!

They have held up well to 3 years of abuse and are still going strong.

I have switched mainly to BD camalots, though, because despite their weight, the double-axel, single stem (key!) and universal (don't confuse my climbing partners) nature of BD just can't be beat.

However, when I am carrying a double or tripple set of cams for aid, I sure am glad to have these lightweight DMMs as part of the mix!

The double-sling is nice, and the U stem is nice for aid...lets you clip in closer to the placement!


Ball Nutz Protection (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: holdplease2, 2003-10-01


These products are great for small taper-less cracks where nuts won't work too well.

Important to note that they can really tear up soft sandstone and that, when used as an aid placement, can rotate around weirdly.

They are light, have an OK range, and work where little else will. Sure you could use a tiny cam, but if there are irregularities where a tiny cam might not seat perfectly (see all "alien popping" stories...positioning of small cams is key) this may be a good option.

Also, these work in shallower placements than small cams, as they are less than an inch deep.

Specialized gear, for sure.

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