THIS REVIEW WRITTEN BY THE ADAMS CITY CLIMBING EAGLES AND POSTED BY J_UNG

At first, the idea of herbal chalk seems like an idea developed by some leftover New Age Boulderites: aromatherapy chalk?? Chalk is chalk, right? Wrong. Jenny Q’s Herbals, maker of Joshua Tree Climbing Salve, has developed herbal chalk; a product meant to keep you calm and focused as it dries your hands. We’ve had the pleasure of testing out the different “flavors” of herbal chalk over the past couple of weeks and we were pretty pleased with the results.

Jenny Q’s Herbal Chalk is a finely powdered, scented chalk. Next to your shoes, this is likely one of the more personalized products you’d buy. Not everyone appreciates every scent. Fire has a scent of cinnamon; Ice has a menthol/pine scent, and Spirit smells of lavender. Its fine powder makes it seem to not last as long, but your hands do stay dry even after the whiteness of the chalk has faded. (The scent remains, however.) A hazard of overchalking with Herbal Chalk is that your hands will feel somewhat greasy. (One way to avoid that could be mixing it with a less finely powdered chalk.)

Jenny Q’s Herbal Chalk isn’t suggested for small, indoor climbing spaces- it can be pretty overwhelming. In larger spaces and in the great outdoors, though, this stuff is amazing. As your hands pass back in front you from the chalk bag, the scent of the chalk wafts through the air, relaxing you and helping to bring your focus back to the climb. Of course, that effect could simply be psychological, but then again, isn’t that the point?

Jenny Q’s Herbals is based in Joshua Tree, California and features cruelty-free, organic and hand crafted products. (Orders and questions should be directed to salesATandramine.com.) A 50-gram bag of Herbal Chalk sells for $2.40; you can also get a 100-gram bag for $4.40 or a chalk ball for $4.40. (Compare to another company’s herbal chalk, which sells for $6.00 for 4 oz.) While this may seem a bit on the steep side for chalk, when you add in the benefit of the scent effects, it amounts to money well spent.

[b]Full Disclosure: The company that manufactured this equipment provided it free of charge to RC.com and RC.com then provided it as compensation to the reviewer for his or her review. This company does not currently advertise on RC.com.[/b]

Many years past, psychologist, Abraham Maslow defined a hierarchy of needs and postulated that they motivate all human behavior. His model took the form of a pyramid, with the most basic needs forming a foundation upon which more complicated needs were stacked. At the very bottom of the pyramid, the most basic, urgent needs are physiological. We need air, water and food to survive. They are, Maslow theorized, our most basic requirements.

Not quite so many years ago, Gatorade spent millions on research to figure out the optimal ratios of liquid to electrolytes for active human bodies to perform best. Put simply, electrolytes are what your body uses to transmit electrical impulses (necessary for muscle contractions) throughout your body. One could safely add electrolytes to the foundation of Maslow’s hierarchy. Without electrolytes, we cannot function... at all.

Now there’s a new player on the field: Elete. Elete developed its product, a liquid electrolyte concentrate, for people like us to add to our existing hydration systems without the encumbrance of such un-necessities as sugar, preservatives, artificial colors and flavoring. Half a teaspoon of Elete in a liter of water adds 45 mg of magnesium, 125 mg of sodium, 130 mg of potassium and 390 mg of chloride to your water with none of the qualities developed by marketing creative teams, instead of researchers.

OK, that’s the technical stuff. Now here’s the skinny: Elete tastes horrible. I tried every conceivable suggestion from the Elete website to make my electro-laced water palatable to no avail. To achieve an acceptable flavor, I had to reduce the recipe so much that I question the value. Finally, I gave up and squeezed a lime wedge into my bottle. Success! Leave it to citrus to save the day.

According to Elete, one can safely consume less water when exercising with their product. All flavor jokes aside, the weight-saving implications for big wallers are obvious. However, I’d be more inclined to add Elete to my normal ration than to leave the ground with an experimental amount of water in hopes that I’d found a miracle product.

To be honest, I don’t know for sure about the less water claim. I felt great drinking my Elete-lime-water mix, but since our salt levels tend to fluctuate according to what we eat anyway, I can’t be certain that the difference was really worth it. As far as Elete’s claim to performance enhancement, I have to agree, simply because I know that electrolyte additions are good for athletes. If you don’t approach/climb at elite (not Elete!) levels, however, I don’t think you’ll notice a difference. The one time that I did purposely drink less water to test Elete’s claim, I felt that same mid-afternoon lethargy that I usually get when I haven’t had enough plain ol’ water.

[b]Full Disclosure: The company that manufactured this equipment provided it free of charge to RC.com and RC.com then provided it as compensation to the reviewer for his or her review. This company does not currently advertise on RC.com.[/b]

“Do you have the pack?” I called from atop the first pitch of Crimson Chrysalis.

“Yes, I have the pack,” replied Wendy (punkin). I had talked the route up to her since I climbed it with a buddy years ago. Who wouldn’t like 1000 feet of big holds and easy climbing? Wendy and I looked forward to climbing it together for a long time, but the wind was picking up, making it a little hard to communicate.

“Slack?” I asked, confused.

“Okay… jeez. Do you have the pack?”

We were up long before dawn and hiking from SR 159, and thankfully, we were first on the route. But as the wind whipped harder and clouds began to move in, I wondered if we were the early bird or the Dodo.

Throughout the morning the weather grew steadily worse, with wind gusting hard enough to surprise us when we were off balance. We donned a hat each atop pitch two, then a layer atop pitch four and again atop pitch seven. Time again we went into the pack, a Mammut Face 22 (liters), looking for clothing, food, water… anything to stave off the cold and wind. Time and again the pack came through with just what we needed.

We left the ground with two extra jackets and a hat apiece, plus a bladder of water and a handful of energy bars. Try fitting all that in a Bullet. The Face’s spacious 22 liters is perfect for short alpine routes, the likes of which we unexpectedly found ourselves smack in the middle. All day the Face performed like a stripper with new boobs. And by nightfall, we stuffed so many compliments in its garter, if the Face had a face it would have blushed.

Though the Face has a handful of thoughtful features – bomber ice axe loops, a hydration pouch built for two bladders and a handy outer pocket – its best feature, by far, is its shape. Its low profile kept the load close to my body, and double side compression straps further shrunk its shape. Surprisingly – pleasantly so – the Face screwed with my center of gravity far less than many of its peers have done, some of which make me look like Quasimodo and climb about as gracefully.

Mammut still hasn’t solved the problem of the pack’s waist belt getting in the way of a climbing harness, and the gear loops they thoughtfully added are set a little far back on my relatively normal 32-inch waist. If you’re thinner, you may not have that problem. Wider? Fuggettaboutit. Wendy adapted to the interference by bringing the belt under her harness gear loops and clipping the buckle closed beneath her belay loop; problem solved.

The Face comes with Mammut’s revolutionary Y-frame for support, but it’s completely unnecessary on a pack of this size. The one they shipped me had the frame removed and I suggest you do the same with yours. The reward is a pack that has no trouble moving with you when you climb, instead of fighting you every inch of the way.

I like the Face 22 a lot for the simple reason that I don’t have to change the way I climb substantially while wearing it. Don’t underestimate the value of that. But Mammut overshot the mark when it tried to get fancy on some of its features, such as the sternum strap, which tends to detach completely from the shoulder straps at the most inopportune times. Unfortunately, if the sternum strap pops off while climbing, the pack gets floppy and negates its own best qualities. It’s easy to replace… but you need two hands.

The database doesn’t allow half biners. If it did the Face would get a solid 3.5; it’s definitely above average. The sternum strap makes me round down to three, however. So close to perfection…

REVIEW BY MICHAEL REARDON. SUBMITTED BY J_UNG.

[b]Full Disclosure: The company that manufactured this equipment provided it free of charge to RC.com and RC.com then provided it as compensation to the reviewer for his or her review. This company does not currently advertise on RC.com.[/b]

Too many years ago, I placed my first bolt. A crusty climber had decided it was time
to teach this young gun about fear, and it worked. High up on the slick granite of
Tahquitz, my feet were pasted on ridiculous smears, forced into readjusting every
time my hammer smacked into the drill I held steady in my hand. Salted sweat stung my
eyes as the sun cooked my skin. A wet thump and fierce pain connected every nerve in
my body from where the hammer struck my wrist. Thirty feet later the rope caught me
near Crusty. I was winded, but thrilled beyond belief.

There are few things in life more exhilarating than putting up a route on lead.
Committing to the unknown, preparing for any contingency and tossing all
sensibilities out the window because let's face facts - there's always an easier way
up. It is a challenge that few are willing to take on, but the reward? A lifetime of
memories. I'd have more memories, but five pound hammer blows to the wrist get
painful after a while, not to mention the subsequent falls...

But, then cordless drills came along and made life simpler for those willing to
head into the unknown.

Bosch (http://www.boschtools.com), the largest power tool and accessory manufacturer
in the world, helps the memories continue with greater ease thanks to their SDS-Plus
24-volt Cordless Rotary Hammer Drill.

Doctors had previously banned this natural blonde from any mechanical items involving
sharp instruments, but upon arrival the blue beast literally shined from within its
case, beckoning me to play. I called a couple friends and 15 minutes later, the
battery was charged and we were ready to bolt everything in our path.

The first thing we noticed was the tool-free bit function. This allows for
single-handed drill bit changing by simply pressing the bit into place until an
audible click signifies that it's locked. Removing the bit is just as easy, with a
mild press of the collar. The trigger is extremely sensitive and goes from zero to
rippin' in less than two seconds. It weighs a relatively light 9.2 pounds, and
contains all metal gears with a standard 3-year warranty. At a list price of $936
(though I found it for $499.95 on several websites) that includes two batteries and a
depth gauge, the SDS-Plus is $100 cheaper than it's big brother and has the extra
advantage of using a battery system that is interchangeable with other common Bosch
cordless tools.

The hammer mode is what impresses me most. Many drills operate with basic rotation
that bites into the material it is placed against, thereby drilling a hole. The
denser the material, the harder one has to press to get the drill to bite. If on
rappel, the danger level is similar to golf and this is not an issue. But when on
lead, balance and insecurity may not allow the necessary pressure to get the drill to
bite. Bosch makes this easier on the leader, for when the SDS-Plus is in Hammer mode,
it literally pounds the drill bit in while rotating. At maximum speed, it provides
4,400 beats per minute while spinning at 1,200 rpm! With a sharp bit, even the
hardest granite gets a placement for a bolt in less than two minutes.

My friends and I also tested the battery life based on how many bolt holes we could
drill per charge. We drilled each hole with a half-inch bit, to a depth of five
inches:

1. Sandstone: 18
2. Volcanic Bracia: 14
3. Welded Tuft: 14
4. Quartz Monzonite: 12
5. Granite: 11
6. 16-year old Foundation Cement: 23
7. Neighbor's Walkway Tiles: 72

In all, my only complaint for the SDS-Plus is that while drilling on lead, the single
trigger position makes it difficult to properly grasp the drill and press at the same
time, particularly with the elongated 1/2" bit. When placing bolts on rappel,
this will never be a problem, but there are still those that hunger for adventure on
lead. Having a second trigger function on the side would help resolve this, and even
possibly encourage others to find those memories of their own.

All in all, Bosch again proves itself to be the leader in quality and craftsmanship.
And for the handful of bolts that this team will continue to place, they will be done
with a Bosch in hand.

EDITOR'S NOTE: Rockclimbing.com doesn't advocate bolting or not bolting, power drilling or hand drilling, drilling on lead, on aid or on rappel, or dilling in any medium, from wilderness areas to roadcuts to your neighbors front walk in any way shape or form. Your ethics are for you to decide, not us.

[b]Full Disclosure: The company that manufactured this equipment provided it free of charge to RC.com and RC.com then provided it as compensation to the reviewer for his or her review. This company does not currently advertise on RC.com.[/b]

[img]http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos//510/51075.jpg[/img]

I fall a lot. I fall in the gym and outside. I fall on toprope, sport routes and trad routes; it doesn’t matter. I fall enough that it’s probably a good thing I don’t boulder very much or climb aid.

With all of the flight time I log, I tend to be concerned about my cord, which is one reason why, for several years, I’ve been a one-rope kinda guy. But I’m not going to tell you which rope that is, because I’m here to review a different rope… a [i]better[/i] rope. [i]This[/i] rope is Sterling’s Marathon, specifically, the (new for this year) 10.1mm Marathon Pro.

Like many American-based rope companies, Sterling has undergone a few changes recently due to decisions by both Allied Signal and Honeywell to stop manufacturing the high-tensile-strength nylon from which most American ropes have historically been made. Like many of those companies, Sterling also turned to European manufacturer, Rhodia, for its yarn. Different yarns have different qualities and the yarn that goes into each Marathon sheath is 50% thicker than most other companies’ yarn. So for Sterling, the switch in string necessitated a change in their conditioning process to preserve the qualities that so many have come to know and love.

Somewhere along the line, Sterling invested in the equipment necessary to perfect a super-secret method of thermo-dynamic conditioning that heats both the core and sheath equally. This means that as your rope heats, cools and passes through different ranges of humidity, it’s core and sheath expand and contract equally, virtually eliminating all sheath slippage. But more importantly, it allows Sterling to ensure a level of consistency between batches of rope that some makers can only dream about. (According to Sterling’s website only one other rope maker uses this technology, and they ain’t sayin’ who it is.) If I buy another Sterling rope – same model – as the one I’m currently using, I can be assured that it will handle exactly the same as [i]this[/i] cord, which, by the way, is stellar.

I recall several years back when a friend bought an early generation Sterling rope. Until then, I had never heard of the brand, so I was skeptical. We dragged that rope up coarse slabs all season long. We jugged it, fell on it, rappelled endlessly on it and even toproped it into the ground, sometimes working cruxes until we fell over and over and over again. We abused it like Rush Limbaugh abuses pain pills, and that rope was as durable as steel rebar.

But unfortunately, it also handled like rebar. Tying into it was like tying into a live python. After tightening a typical figure-8 follow through, I could still see daylight through every bend and fit a finger through a few of them, too. That impression of Sterling rope stayed with me for years, and fear of buying what would essentially perform like another 60m-long nylon [i]stick[/i] is partly what kept me loyal to my old brand for so long. I had experienced a rope on Viagra and it did not please me.

Well, as (ahem) [i]hard[/i] as my old partner’s Sterling was to manage, my new one is just plain dreamy. It’s like tying into a silk scarf and belaying is like taking a breath of fresh air. And after several months of solid use, this rope shows few signs of wear – exactly what one would expect from a rope called “Marathon.”

[img]http://photos.rockclimbing.com/photos//510/51052.jpg[/img]
[size=9]Rob Leisey takes Sterling’s new tech out for a spin at Sauratown, NC.[/size]

Some longtime Sterling users will wonder why this new rope is 10.1mm thick instead of the old familiar ten. Don’t worry, that’s just a direct result of the new yarn, which is a little [i]fluffier[/i], for lack of a better word, than last years’. (I guess Europeans like fluffy yarn.) This fluffiness translates to an even thicker sheath without any noticeable addition in weight, which will please Marathon fans. Longtime Sterling users and frequent flyers like myself might also notice a slightly softer catch. The new, lower impact force – despite the increased girth – is yet another pleasant surprise thanks in equal parts to the new yarn and new conditioning process. And according to Sterling engineer, Jim Ewing, the new fibers will return to their original stretchiness quicker and after more weightings than previous models.

With its thick sheath and new conditioning process, the Marathon Pro is an excellent rope for projecting single-pitch trad and sport routes, when the numbers of falls and takes are obscene. At 63 g/m, the Marathon Pro is only one gram heavier than Sterling’s 9.7 Evolution. And with an impact force of 8.6 kN, it gives a softer catch than every other model of single rope that Sterling makes. All Sterling ropes come with their patented Dry-Core technology, so even if your big ol’ sheath gets a little sloppy, your core stays high and dry, preserving the rope's strength. If that’s not enough, Sterling also offers a completely dry rope.

Sterling gives the Marathon Pro a low recommendation for aid and wall climbing, so if that's your bag, maybe check out an Evolution Quantum, Sterling's 10.7mm cord. But as a humble trad/sport climber, I can’t find a single thing not to like about this rope. I flied and tried… over and over again.

[list]Diameter: 10.1mm *
Type: Single *
UIAA Falls: 6 *
Impact Force: 8.6 kN *
Static Elongation: 8.4% *
Dynamic Elongation: 35.3% *
Sheath Slippage: 0mm *
Weight: 63 g/m *
UIAA and CE certified[/list]