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Reviews by lopside (2)


Demorto (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

The demorto; a gym-rat's perspective. 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: lopside, 2007-06-26


I have morton's toe and I climb pretty hard (5.11c onsights are commonplace, a bit harder redpoint, solidly v4 bouldering, occasionally onsight, sometimes ~v5) almost exclusively indoors, and the demorto has served me very well. When climbing for endurance, my arms feel tired long before my feet do. In my current pair, I've done 400+ ft traverses with little foot fatigue; incidentally, I cram my size 9.5 foot into a pair of size 8 demortos. when climbing for performance, I don't feel afraid to really load up on small pieces. My verdict is get yourself a pair and go out to pound some plastic.

A few little criticisms... The toe-rand could be more durable. Mine blew out, probably due to my spastic climbing style and relatively 'inexperienced' technique. The edging performance isn't the best I've ever tried, but it's alright. People with morton's toe often have abnormally narrow feet, especially their heels, and I've had a couple brutal heel hooks slip because these aren't perfectly snug around the ankles on me. Also, the jagged heel looks cool, but I'm not at all convinced it really holds heel-hooks as well as a plain smooth heel would.

But don't let this nitpicking scare you. I've tried a /lot/ of shoes, and these are the only ones that do it for me. If you have morton's toe, they'll probably do it for you too.


The Manta (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Hang Boards

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: lopside, 2006-09-25


An intermediate-advanced hangboard with difficult finger pockets, edges and slopers.

First what's good: I find it hard to get much of a pump off the metolius boards, particularly where slopers are concerned. This board provides a variety of sloping holds of various difficulties, as well as small edges and shallow one, two and three finger pockets. Its organic shape lends itself well to creative uses, while its large size makes off-set chinups a breeze.

Now the downside: Its size is a drawback; I don't personally have room for this board. Even the easiest edges/slopers are somewhat difficult. Its shipping weight and size makes delivery prohibitively expensive, particularly considering the 100$$ price tag.

All and all, a great product. When I'm at the gym, this is the only board I use. As of this writing, I climb strong 5.11a and am trying to break v3 bouldering.

update- I'd been stuck in v2+ territory for ever-- after a few serrious training sessions with this board, I'm climbing v4.