Routes : North America : United States : South Dakota : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needles Eye : Needles Eye
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Needles Eye - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
Very runout. Quickdraws for fixed pins, slings for horns, a black alien or 00 tcu can go between th
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Description:
Scary. Start on the downhill side below the guardrail. Climb unprotected to the big shoulder which can be slung. Run it out 40 feet up the arete 5.7 to two bad fixed pins, slinging a horn or two for psychological pro on the way. Use screamers on the pins and back them up with a small cam. Traverse along the seam and then launch up 30 fet of hard 5.8 crystal climbing to the top. Breath a sigh of relief. If you fall your death will likely be captured on a tourist's video camera. Stellar route.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2001-10-22
Views: 1290
Route ID: 5649
8 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 8 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by:
Needles Eye
Hats off to Rich Goldstone for an FA in the 1960s on this. Don't take much gear...because there's not a lot. A screamer on one of the pins might be comforting.
Added: 2010-09-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Didn't have a proper guidebook, just a list of classics and rough route descriptions. Realized as I was looking up towards the fixed pin what I was getting into. Looking down and seeing the dozen tourists taking pictures of you will complete your Needles "experience". A running belay MIGHT keep you from taking a 70 foot grounder before clipping the pin but I wouldn't want to test that theory! Did it in 1 pitch with long slings on everything: even with this I had some bad rope drag at the finish.
Added: 2008-08-21
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Solo ascent by:
Always on Camera
When you're climbing near the road, prepare to be videotaped...
Added: 2007-11-16
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Ascent Note
Very runout and scary. Bring small cams and nuts. Make sure that you are very comfortable at this level, or even a few higher before attempting this route.
Added: 2002-09-01
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 1997-07-12
