Future Legend, 19 - 5.10b
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 50
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Micro/medium cams, small wires, tricams. Build an anchor(tri cams work well for this.)
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Description:
The dihedral left of Hot legs is Future Legend. Work your way through the small overhang to easier climbing and better pro in the crack above. Protect well in the crack at the back of the roof, then commit to the right wall for a few moves on small edges and adiquate pro until you can lay back in the finger crack. Reach the jugs at the edge of the roof and it's all over. Staunch climbing that makes other lines of this grade look soft.
Submitted by: socialclimber on 2006-01-15
Last Modified: 2007-03-04
Views: 572
Route ID: 69046
3 Ascents Recorded
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Safety Rating | G |
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Flash ascent by: doogle on 2007-03-04
(View Climbing Log)
header
It wasn't pretty, but it was sent.
Added: 2007-03-04
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Hang Dog ascent by: socialclimber on 2005-08-21
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
sbaclimber and I dogged and yo-yo'd this bitch into submission. It wasn't pretty. We've both been up and down it enough to know what goes where now so it might be different next time.
Witnessed by: sbaclimber
Added: 2005-08-21
Added: 2005-08-21
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Top Rope ascent by: sbaclimber on 2005-08-21
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
A very steep 19!
Beta for my redpoint (spoiler, don't read if you want to onsite):
1st crux(1st small overhang), #4 nut can be slotted from high down deep in the crack (bitch to clean). Use a right knee bar, the crimper to the left, and either the crimper high and to the far right or the lay-back sloper just the right of the crack.
2nd crux, set a #0.3 cam high and right in the crack(1/3m left of roof end). Left foot up, smear with right, and layback like a banshee.
Beta for my redpoint (spoiler, don't read if you want to onsite):
1st crux(1st small overhang), #4 nut can be slotted from high down deep in the crack (bitch to clean). Use a right knee bar, the crimper to the left, and either the crimper high and to the far right or the lay-back sloper just the right of the crack.
2nd crux, set a #0.3 cam high and right in the crack(1/3m left of roof end). Left foot up, smear with right, and layback like a banshee.
Witnessed by: socialclimber
Added: 2005-08-21
Added: 2005-08-21