Routes : Reviews
sbaclimber's Logbook (259 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
|
|
||||
Comments: Show | Hide
Routes: Europe: Germany: Sachsen (Saxony): Elbsandstein: Schrammsteine: Falkenstein
Schusterweg (III)
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.3 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Absolute classic!
The length and quality, combined with the easy climbing, definitely makes this *the* must-do line of the Elbsandsteingebirge.
If you know what to look for, the protection is actually moderately good (relatively speaking), and the route is for the most part obvious, except in 2 spots...
I would still highly recommended everyone do the route the first time with someone who knows the way.
If you know what to look for, the protection is actually moderately good (relatively speaking), and the route is for the most part obvious, except in 2 spots...
I would still highly recommended everyone do the route the first time with someone who knows the way.
Added: 2011-06-20
Routes: Europe: Germany: Sachsen (Saxony): Leipzig - Halle: Hohburger Berge: Gaudlitzberg
Little Big Crack
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Fun crack line
Need to go back and do it all trad (except first bolt). Remember to take at least 4 pieces ~.5 BD cam size (red/brown tri-cam).
Added: 2009-08-12
Routes: Europe: Germany: Sachsen (Saxony): Leipzig - Halle: Hohburger Berge: Gaudlitzberg
C.C. Weg
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
5-star line!!!
This time, did it without any bolts. Excellent!!!
Added: 2009-08-12
Routes: Europe: Germany: Sachsen (Saxony): Leipzig - Halle: Hohburger Berge: Gaudlitzberg
13. September
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Very nice crack
need to go back and do it all natural.
Added: 2009-08-12
Routes: Europe: Germany: Niedersachsen: Ith- Luerdissen: Haderturm
NW-Riß
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
too short
Good route! Too bad it is so short....
Climbed without clipping the bolt, as it is completely superfluous right next to a perfectly protectable crack.
Climbed without clipping the bolt, as it is completely superfluous right next to a perfectly protectable crack.
Added: 2009-06-08
Routes: Europe: Germany: Niedersachsen: Ith- Luerdissen: Haderturm
Bückling
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
weak sauce
I was weak, and needed a break just to pull the "roof".
Think 6- is a bit much as a warm-up right at the moment.
Think 6- is a bit much as a warm-up right at the moment.
Added: 2009-06-08
Routes: Europe: Germany: Niedersachsen: Ith- Luerdissen: Wilhelm-Raabe-Klippe
Direkte Talseite
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
why the bolts!?
Not spectacular, but fun anyway.
Did it clean (no bolts clipped) to the rap ring. Good trad line!
<rant>
Why there are bolts on this route, I have no idea!
The natural protection is more that adequate (2nd bolt is directly next to the most beautiful wire placement ever!), so it could remain 100% trad.
And, there aren't enough bolts to make it a sport line, which confused me even more... :-/
What's the point!?
</rant>
Did it clean (no bolts clipped) to the rap ring. Good trad line!
<rant>
Why there are bolts on this route, I have no idea!
The natural protection is more that adequate (2nd bolt is directly next to the most beautiful wire placement ever!), so it could remain 100% trad.
And, there aren't enough bolts to make it a sport line, which confused me even more... :-/
What's the point!?
</rant>
Added: 2009-06-08
Routes: Australasia: New Zealand: Canterbury: Banks Peninsula: Devils Gap: The Slabs
Chode
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
strenuous
Bit of a one-move-wonder, but that one move is actually many small ones strung together and all quite strenuous. Basically a very sequential bouldery crux.
Added: 2008-04-01
Routes: Australasia: New Zealand: Canterbury: Banks Peninsula: Coffin Rock
Aufwiedersehen, New Zealand
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
maybe not a star
but fun nontheless. The crux makes you think a bit.
Added: 2008-03-22
Routes: Australasia: New Zealand: Canterbury: Banks Peninsula: Coffin Rock
The Jolly Gardener, 17
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
nice jam crack
most of the loose bits seem to have fallen off now, so the climbing is pretty good now. gets steadily harder to the crux, then jugs appear just as things get desperate.
Gorse needs a bit of a trim through the traverse to the rings.
Gorse needs a bit of a trim through the traverse to the rings.
Added: 2008-03-02
