Routes : North America : United States : Illinois : South : Cedar Bluff : The Little Big Wall : Dizzy
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Dizzy - 5.8
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
bolts, with a piece or two of trad
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Description:
At the left (west) end of the accessible part of Cedar Bluff, where the path goes down to the huge 'cave'. A bouldery start gets you up to the start of a dihedral. Place pro here to protect your second from a boulder-bouncing swing if he or she pops. Go up a bit, and traverse left to the series of bolts protecting the face. You'll have two variations to choose from: the usual 5.7 up the big flakes to the bolted hanging belay, or continue a bit further left to thinner face climbing (5.10) up to the same belay. Bring up your second. From here, either crank a few roof moves at 5.12, or go up the gulley immediately above the belay at 5.8, all bolts. The lead climber will be out of sight of the belayer for most of the second pitch, so communicate clearly. Rap from the bolt anchors, making sure that your rope ends are even before you drop them off; it will be a free hanging rappel. Very fun, very exposed; kinda dramatic from the ground, too. Highly recommended.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2002-06-29
Views: 1825
Route ID: 7940
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13 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 13 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Red Point ascent by:
great lead route
slightly bouldery start, set trad gear (cam) for second; followed bolt line of great holds through great exposure up to solid hanging belay. Took gulley for second pitch to finish this great route. Free-hanging rap to the ground.
Added: 2012-07-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
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great view at the top
Added: 2012-03-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Fav So Ill multi pitch
fun beginning, neat exposed finish.
Added: 2012-01-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Dizzy
I lead the first pitch an followed on the second. FUn exposed climbing for the last move of the second pitch.
Added: 2010-11-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Very cool route.
You'll feel really exposed on the 2nd pitch.
Highly recommended.
Highly recommended.
Added: 2007-09-06
