Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Talseite -
5.11d
Average Rating : 5.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | X |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Saxon Rules
I lived a climbed in Germany for 6 years. Various partners tried to entice me to visit; I refused considering the "Rules", an absurd vestige of Communist Control.
Nothing is further from truth. Elb Sandstone is a climbing museum, and should be visited by any hard core lifer. The experience is worth the rules.
My normal onsight level is 12 A. Onsighting 11+ X is not something I'd generally do (or ever repeat). Anyway, the stars were aligned, the fans were all in place, and the partner was first rate. I also received a healthy chunk of beta reducing he accomplishment to a flash.
After this climb, I spent a further 9 days climbing at the Elb, where I slowly did things in reverse, learning to place proper Elb Pro on 5.10s. I'll go back
(we tested knots, large to small, in the Phalz. They all held falls, perhaps better than nuts in soft sandstone. The main disadvantage is that a good knot took me a few minutes to place)
Nothing is further from truth. Elb Sandstone is a climbing museum, and should be visited by any hard core lifer. The experience is worth the rules.
My normal onsight level is 12 A. Onsighting 11+ X is not something I'd generally do (or ever repeat). Anyway, the stars were aligned, the fans were all in place, and the partner was first rate. I also received a healthy chunk of beta reducing he accomplishment to a flash.
After this climb, I spent a further 9 days climbing at the Elb, where I slowly did things in reverse, learning to place proper Elb Pro on 5.10s. I'll go back
(we tested knots, large to small, in the Phalz. They all held falls, perhaps better than nuts in soft sandstone. The main disadvantage is that a good knot took me a few minutes to place)
Added: 2011-07-09
