Ascent Notes for: Rubicon - 5.10d Average Rating : 4.65/5

Was suprised and impressed with myself when I got this one clean as a second - will have to return for the redpoint. I was also told this route is good practice for the top of the Bat Crack on Vampire (my long-term trad goal).

Hauling winds and cold temps - exciting. Use single slings for pieces next to corners and it goes fine in one pitch.

Maybe Illusion Dweller is slightly better, but this is a one of a kind, phenomenal climb. Best done with 1) two ropes or 2) moving pieces up the initial crack and the traverse. If you choose option 2, your second must do the direct start, which is worth doing too. My two cents on the grade is that it is appropriate. A hard 5.10.

durp

Psyched to get the onsite. This is the best Josh crack I've done to date. To be fair, probably .10c instead of d.

One of the finest single pitches of climbing I've done! Crisp moves, great friction, crack moves from wide blue camalot fists to small alien finger jams. I'd call it Gunks ten a/b, definately not ten plus.

one of the raddest lines i have done. put some long runners around the corners and rope drag wont mean a thing. a must do!

Beautiful, proud rock and plenty of stances. Run it out down low, do it in 2 pitches, or you'll be sorry.

Don not wait

clean follow, first try. paul liked it considerably better than me, i think because he was actually finger locking and i was effectivly laying the whole thing back.