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gregory_huey's Logbook (136 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (10)



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Routes: North America: United States: California: Los Angeles County: Echo Cliffs: Dream Street

Immaculate Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Greate route - technical, sequency and powerful

This is a very beta-intensive route. The crux - pulling the bulge - has lots of holds - all bad and all chalked (particularly the feet). It took me a while to find a sequence to the jug that while very difficult, was possible for me to do. Before the bulge there are big moves to good holds (good for a 12, that is) - the key is simply knowing what to go for. Above the bulge the climbing in not too difficult on its own - but strenuous enough after the crux to be challenging. This route felt to be on the difficult end of 12a for me - probably would not argue with a 12b rating - but then I've never been a very good boulderer.

Added: 2012-07-29

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Metro Sector

Graffiti Wisdom Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Started working on TR - might be next project

Started working the moves on this route (on TR) today. I found the crux very hard - took quite a few tries t barely get it. I think it might be a bit easier for someone the boulders alot, and thus has a high pinch strength (I don't) and maybe reach helps a bit also (grabbing the pinch higher is better, and the footwork might involve one less move while on the pinch). I'd guess that is why it felt soft to Steve - it probably really suits his style. I might start working this on lead if I can reliably get the crux move in a few tries.

Added: 2012-07-29

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Technicolor Tango Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Unexpected RP

didn't expect to bag the RP when starting up today - but Steve's beta on two good rest locations made a very big difference - thanks Steve. I had thought that the RP on this route would have to wait until I got alot more stamina. I think the middle crux - the part that is supposed to be 12c - is more of a technique crux than a brute power or stamina crux. Thus, it seems hard at first and feels easier as one does is more. I would say its definitely not a soft 12c as an onsight grade. Was thinking this was my lucky day until buying groceries on the way home and it turns out Pasadena has made the RETARDED move of banning plastic bags - penalizing those who recycle along with those who don't.

Added: 2012-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: West Face Bulge

The Vampire popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Greate route

Did this route with Lukasz. The crack is awesome, the slab is hard & obnoxious. Though easy, the finishing pitch is pretty cool (how often are you pulling overhangs on trad?). The pitch 3 crux seems run-out to me. Morning shade, afternoon sun. Had a good view of the unfortunate rockfall & aftermath on the Trough while on pitch 3.

Added: 2012-05-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Consuming Selection Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars redpoint

For short people I think the first bulge is the crux. Alain showed me a far-right foot that helps alot.

Added: 2012-03-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Natural Selection Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2012-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First 12c redpoint!

Wuhu! My first 12c redpoint!

I would say there are two 12-ish cruxes on this route. Between bolts 3 and 4 is one that seems generally more difficult for shorter people, and the upper generally seems more difficult for taller people.

Added: 2012-02-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Survival of the Fittest popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.15a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2011-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Really a 12a

This route is probably a 12a. Rating it higher to cancel out the dipshit that rated it 5.1

Added: 2011-11-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Left of the Roof

Burning Desire P1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2011-11-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A most excellent route

Finally bagged the redpoint today. This is a really great 12b - perhaps one of the best routes of its grade at the Quarry.

Added: 2011-11-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Phobos Deimos

Blues Riff Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gregory_huey on 2011-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

Not sure where to start? Started, then went left onto some holds that, though chalked, looked as if they might come off, then continued up to the ledge. The crack is _excellent_. Tech crux is short, but there is alot of post-crux pump on the way to top of pitch 2, particularly if one has not yet acclimated to the altitude.

Added: 2011-09-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Fairview Dome: North Side

Lucky Streaks popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gregory_huey on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bagged the RP

Came back two years after my previous ascent and bagged the RP. My excellent partner, aerili, bagged the onsight. That the crux sections felt significantly less difficult than I remember is a nice indicator of how much I've improved. The 10d section is short but technical.

Added: 2011-09-05

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