Ascent Notes for: Filthy Sanchez - 5.12a Average Rating : 4.00/5

12a/b? Some guy told me it was a 10d and when I get down from the onsight I look and the old book has that grade? Why did the new book downgrade so much? 5.fun no matter what

Does not feel 12a/b. More like 11b. The moves are sustained, but good rests most of the way up. Fun route, and gorgeous to look at.

a

Sustained, then, balancy climbing, with a reach dependent crux. If you are 6-2, and can casual reach to a cripmp midway, this route might feel like a 5.11-. At 6-0, the deadpoint felt like 12a to me. If shorter, you'd have to dino to the crimp, making it harder yet.
*Beware of a lost block and a lavender colored loose flake right next to each other.

great climb

the first paper guide puts it at 10+, the second at 11+, and new book at 12a/b. yes, that's ambiguous, however, I think it's harder than 10c

First, you have to pull a move harder than 5.10c to get off the ground. There is a distinct crux with some balancy arete moves, but the thing that makes this route hard is that it's extremely sustained up until right before the anchors. Somewhere in the 5.11+/5.12- range sounds right to me.

In the new HCR guide book, it says this route is 12a/b. NOT 12 a/b, more like 10c/d.. maybe... But a great route!! Rock qualty is amazing