Ascent Notes for: Open Book - 5.9 popular Average Rating : 4.72/5

The "crux" is not the crux, the "bouldery start" is more like a solo. I think i went to far right on the start and had some seriously sketchy moves back to the crack. I think next time I'll just take the 10 C direct start. The flake was easy, and well protected, I think people are just scared of the move. The offwidth above could use a couple #4's, anybody who says otherwise is just trying to impress you with their runouts.
It's definitely a 5.9, but I wouldn't recommend this climb to 5.9 climbers. (Oh, and it was the worlds first 5.9, but that's only because the rest of the world didn't use the YDS) - I think I'm grumpy today, my notes are pissy.

And it's terrific. Has a little bit of everything, starting out with a bouldery, steep sequence. P1 was my fav, especially navigating the flake. P2 is sustained and i switched off and on from shoulder scumming to laying it back.

(start stupid grade argument here, just kidding!) Beautiful line with good moves. I gleaned gear beta from a couple different parties and the recommendations were all over the place. Ended up taking 2 #3's and 2 #4's, only ended up placing the #4 once as there always seemed to be other options. There is a good stretch of 3-4" crack (wide hands and shoulder scum or lieback) on pitch 2 so if you are not confident bring extras. I won't give away the beta for the 5.6R traverse but I will say it is not that bad, especially compared to other heady Tahquitz climbing.

Led pitch 1 to the ledge above the flake, followed pitch 2 to just below the slab, led last pitch with slab and 4th class.

very burly.

Good times. Bring some bigger gear.

good route. still had the old wooden wedges in it

None

All 3 pitches on lead
P1: Exposed, bouldery start. to wider, varying dihedral.
P2: Sustained 2.5"-4" crack for like 80'. Big hands/small fists for me. I have big hands. Got into a routine with my footwork. It was sweet. Runout 5.6 slab at end (unless you bring BIG bros)
P3: Easy

Now I know for sure what to compare other 5.9's to and can call them out accordingly...Thank you Mr. Robbins