Ascent Notes for: Do or Dive - 5.10a Average Rating : 4.06/5

Finally got the gear wired, my head on straight, and went for the lead. Figured out how to rest below the crux roof and plug in the hard to find nut a little over the roof, cruised the crux runout and got the bomber nut and backup small cam after only to accidentally skip the next key placement and create just as big a runout as the mandatory one. Stupid. Anyway, it went pretty smoothly except I had to dodge a bit right to avoid a rope tangle after the big diagonal crack near the top as a party on Raise Hell decided to take their line that way instead of straight up. Whatever - I'll take the RP.

Good route to have the beta wired on if you aren't strong enough to just hang on through sustained pumpy climbing. Some long falls possible, although most are probably safe. I'd say one 10a move followed by pumpy 5.9 stuff until it backs off again. Nothing flashy, just pretty good sustained face climbing.

At times it seemed like my brain was just along for the ride; my body knew the moves better than my mind. Still got just a taste of pump....

May try a mock lead next time just to see what happens + what kind of gear it takes. A bit pumpy in spots though... Definitely feels like the middle sibling between Raise Hell and Quaker State.

Crux a bit thin and strenuous.

update - did the mock on a HOT day and just about slid off the wall from all the sweat. Made it through the crux ok but would love to know where that brassie is supposed to go if I try this for real... anyone?

not really runout per se (only 5 or 6 feet over key nut placement when you get some really great gear), but being that far above a brassie made me sweat a little.

log in repeats, but I took a long fall off this route last week and climbed it clean this time, so it felt redemptive. A "corrective emotional experience" as my social worker/climbing partner likes to say.

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lots of fun, someday it will go down on lead..

The book says runout and sandbagged, but I didn't think either was true. I used a C3 to protect the move after the crux in a sideways facing pod from the big left hand.

After following this a couple of times, I finally led this. I never did find the nice nut placement after the roof that makes this a little less runout, so I plugged two pieces under the roof and ran it out. It felt pretty good and not at all desperate.

a couple of runouts but a good route. a little bit wet today.