mjwestla's Logbook (242 ascents)

Did the flake start out left, traversed out right level with the bottom of the shallow corner, did crux and set a belay shortly after due to rope drag hell. Easy finish up and right. Two ropes would be the way to go for sure. We had to break it into 3 pitches to reach the rap station which was kind of a pain.

Easy well protected climbing until you wrap around onto the exposed face with the shallow corner and bolt. I had a 00 master cam at the base of the corner and a downward pull only RP that popped when I pulled rope at the belay or when I pulled up slack to clip the bolt, not sure which. Also kind of sucks for the 2nd since they will likely face a pendulum after unclipping the bolt unless you happen to have a very tiny cam for a thin horizontal above (something smaller than a 000/grey master cam - maybe a tiny C3?).

Getting to the bolt requires some very thin moves, that aren't extremely difficult but are not well protected. A fall before getting the bolt would be nasty and probably bounce you off the apron below and then result in a long tumble down if you didn't stop at the ledge (10' or so below). The moves up and traversing right after the bolt felt about similar difficulty to the moves reaching it so the bolt sort of interrupts a cruxy section rather than protects it exactly. Still, I was grateful it was there, I just wish there was one more very good piece to protect getting to it. Maybe I'll have better luck with another shape/size nut next time I try it. I still need to try to arching left corner finish - it looked intimidating but cool.

TR'ed it then felt up for a quick redpoint at the end of the day. Sequence and knowing where you are going makes this much more plausible. The distance between the 2nd to last and last bolt is pretty far - wouldn't want to blow the mantle. It'd be a nasty long tumble I suspect. Bold but the hardest moves are protected.

Clip the bolt on Bee Tree at the start for sure otherwise R/X since you are a good 25 feet off the deck at least before the first other bolt.

I had forgotten the undercling isn't totally continuous and you have to switch to the rail up top for part of the traverse = added value. Bombproof slotted nut right before that though.

No shortage of lizards at rumbling bald... I felt like I had a small audience taking in my every move.

Followed this at high speed. Helpful but not necessary to have some jamming skill - makes the crux before the bulge much easier. Well protected climb.

Fun easy route - great gear abounds.

Looking forward to a rematch where I can hopefully build some momentum for the clean send. Was a bit wary due to the rep for not great rock so looked to this as an exploratory mission rather than a true onsight effort. As a result I kept taking too long double checking my placements due to the funky irregular cracks. Maybe I was just pumped out from the steep start but there didn't seem to be an abundance of fantastic rest stances, although a stem to the wall out left worked pretty well at one point. I'm not really sure what I'd call the crux on this one.

Kinda reminded me of a harder version of Popeye Effect - short and pumpy with some awkward holds and not as many rest stance as you might want.

Not sure if it's necessary but I build a hanging belay at the top of the difficult section because of a really good #1/.75 C4 sized crack and I needed to have a straight shot to my followers for an extra secure minimum friction belay so they could work the start (which is fairly full on almost immediately).

Went for it and ended up with 2 hangs on the face just below the actual crux. Got the gear beta wired and now I've just gotta get on and keep moving. Flamed out coming around the start corner placing the key nut and and cam(s) just before the crux. I have a feeling it'd go better on a day that wasn't so freakin' hot. Hard time sticking to the crucial jams when sweating so much but was happy to pull through the crux once I actually reached it. Still on the list awaiting a clean ascent...

A bit kooky figuring out where to go right off the belay. We dodged the bulge and followed gear and jugs out left and back right past the roof. Sparse gear but adequate - some cams but lots of shallow nut placements. No stopper moves really but several slightly tenuous sections. No real 10a crux unless maybe you pull that start roof directly? Pulling right to dodge the second roof got my attention a bit but wasn't too bad once you hit the jugs. Met up with P3 of Hindu Kush around the boulder pile-up. Good route.

Solid fun moves and good gear. Holds where you need them. Thought I was going to place some nuts but ended up using all cams. Should have gotten on this last trip.

Finally got the gear wired, my head on straight, and went for the lead. Figured out how to rest below the crux roof and plug in the hard to find nut a little over the roof, cruised the crux runout and got the bomber nut and backup small cam after only to accidentally skip the next key placement and create just as big a runout as the mandatory one. Stupid. Anyway, it went pretty smoothly except I had to dodge a bit right to avoid a rope tangle after the big diagonal crack near the top as a party on Raise Hell decided to take their line that way instead of straight up. Whatever - I'll take the RP.

Good route to have the beta wired on if you aren't strong enough to just hang on through sustained pumpy climbing. Some long falls possible, although most are probably safe. I'd say one 10a move followed by pumpy 5.9 stuff until it backs off again. Nothing flashy, just pretty good sustained face climbing.