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mjwestla's Logbook (253 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Ship Rock: Ship Rock

The Anguish of Capt. Bligh Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars no anguish, only joy today

First clean 11 on gear. Great route with tricky gymnastic movement between small if good stances for gear. Small stoppers (big brass work well) and yellow and green alien sizes do well to protect the start if you can avoid blocking your handholds. More small to mid-size above. Make sure to protect well as the business starts right off the deck and just nuts might zipper. Multiple thin and powerful moves, it's no gimme and not totally over when you turn the arete although you can get a good rest there.

Added: 2014-07-17

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Moores Wall: The North End

Shadow Dance Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars redpoint of P1

It's all there. Lieback, stem, and crimp through exciting engaging moves. I used a ton of my smallest gear on this one but a piece (red ballnut) I sussed out on a follow-up run on TR seemed like a nice alternative to the dubious RPs I used at the start of the slabby bit. Still not sure of the best nuts to use there. The powerful lieback start is fun and well protected although the thin face (and slight overhang at one point) is where the true action is. Fantastic! I think one of the hardest parts is getting yourself moving onto the face from the ledge midway up... could be my favorite route at Moore's even though it's a bit scary.

Added: 2014-06-02

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

Fantastic Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wow, killer route

Got on this sucker with just a sense of the features ahead, not much else. I started on the bottom right behind the big flake to maximize time climbing the crack, which was fun and not nearly so difficult as it looked. Lots of great locks and mostly feet outside of the crack to work with. Was a bit easier to pull the bulge to the first bolt just a little higher than I initially guessed. It was running with water when we got there in the AM but had dried by the time I got on - even so, it is seriously slick in spots. Big hand and foot holds, a bit like the heavily bolted part of the first pitch of the pulpit, but a hell of a lot slicker. It was nerve rattling from there to the anchor. You get two bolts then a committing series of moves using a flake for good hands when the good feet run out. Placed a bunch of small stuff when I got to the flake to try to "share the load" as this is the last pro you get. At the end of the flake there is a very exciting slick traverse right to get to some features you can use to surmount the top of the flake and start of the last bit of slab to the anchor. I was really tense by that point and slipped on the glassy feet. Dropped about 10 feet but no big deal. Got back on and pulled through to the end. The whole way from there is pretty tenuous and I felt it was possible to slip the whole way to the anchor, even though it's very featured (I feel for that person who blew it near the top). It does ease up just a bit though, thankfully. Still, it's an awesome route and highly recommended. Suggest using a 70m to TR and rap P1.

Gear spoilers:
Didn't use any gear bigger than .75 camalot (save that until just after the 2nd bolt!). Used a lot of .5ish size cams and medium nuts in the crack. Several small cams in the flexy flake section but saved a small grey C4 as the last piece of gear. I asked my second to try out my blue/yellow Master cam hybrid and that apparently worked a lot better in that spot. Whatever it is, you want it to be good as it's the last piece you get. :p Glad mine held!

Added: 2014-01-06

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

Face Value Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating X
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Thin

This would be a pretty scary lead - 10ish moves get you up through the face and over the little roof but then a couple more very thin moves are required to get you to what is likely your first gear in a short crack below the first bolt. Not sure if you could get any gear in the little gash at the base of the roof... it'd be a rough steep fall all the way to the ground if you blew it going for the crack.

Still, it's a fun and easy to set TR from the anchors on Fantastic. Pretty brutal crystal crimping and stepping on nothing, although hard to tell if we were going the right way all the time since the features/path is so faint. Had a little pressure bruise on my index fingertip from crushing the hell out of a couple of those crystal crimps.

Added: 2014-01-06

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

Fleet Feet Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very nice - super safe

Did P1 only - Primarily a trad route following a crack and some flakes, this is probably the safest route I have climbed at Stone, excepting perhaps the Arch. Crux right at the first bolt and just a tiny bit of slightly challenging climbing after that. Much less intimidating than most of the other routes I've climbed at Stone, even many of the lower graded routes. Definitely a good choice for warming up for Fantastic even though it's technically easier.

We traversed over to the first bolt on P2 in an effort to set a TR on something but opted to do so from the P1 anchors on Fantastic instead. Not too tough to reach the first bolt, but much more Stone style runout climbing. At least there are some features to work with through that part. The moves to the next bolt looked a bit more heady and certainly that last bit of Fantastic is pretty riveting.

Added: 2014-01-06

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Ship Rock: Ship Rock

Fire Point (5.9+R) Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Not bad

Definitely want to be solid but it's not overly difficult. The start is quite runout and requires a few not entirely trivial moves before you get your first, thankfully solid, piece. (gear beta spoiler: green alien + small nut, maybe brassie). Seemed a similar distance to first gear on Hindu Kush trad start. Puzzle out and pull a somewhat committing crux move and then navigate the choss. Going straight up from there makes you deal with some bad rock but if you traverse left a little around it the climbing is a good deal easier and less committing if still over dubious rock. I still got a couple of pieces that weren't too bad before the quality gear near the arete, just wouldn't have wanted to have tested them. The arete is just plain fun and pretty easy if you look for the good footholds.

A little above the arete is a bulge that is sort of cryptic. First time up I went right and zigged back left through a rather tenuous slabby section that seemed tricky (I now think it's part of Balti porter). This time I cut left onto the Boardwalk face to belay. Maybe you can pull straight through it but it looks more difficult and I didn't see any pro that would have been obvious before committing to the path.

Overall a more fun way to get to KB than the Boardwalk start. The boardwalk lower section is rather uninspired and climbs through a lot of the same choss. I don't really feel like that route gets underway until near where I stopped to belay for this route.

Added: 2013-10-07

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Moores Wall: Hanging Garden

Hodadical Master Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars interesting

Consistent thin climbing and engaging. Lead P1 after a TR last visit. Quite far between bolts, I thought I'd be able to get a micro stopper midway between bolt 1 and 2 but I wasn't able to slide the cable through the opening at the bottom. As such, there was quite a runout between bolts 1-2 and 2-3 which would yield quite a long scary fall when near clipping in both instances. Still, the holds are big enough to enable careful consideration before committing to a potential large fall. Hadn't wanted to try this before on the old bolts, but the new ones are nice and shiny and the rap rings make for a vast improvement over the rat's nest that used to live on the anchor hangers.

Added: 2013-08-05

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Ship Rock: Ship Rock

The Anguish of Capt. Bligh Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR

Very nice variety of fun moves that aren't so obvious. Tricky and powerful in places with a fun finish. Watched someone climb this a while back and thought there wasn't much gear but upon closer inspection I see that is not so. Got a sequence and gear sorted now, so now it's on the lead list!

Added: 2013-07-05

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Moores Wall: Hanging Garden

Whipping Post Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice route

Start is hard to find unless you know where it is - almost immediately after you scramble up to the ledge that the hanging garden gully starts on (right side) there is a left leaning 15' or so tall block above to your left with another ledge a bit left. Scramble up between the two and step across to the the block out right (careful a fall would be BAD but it's not hard). A nice flat ledge awaits and a good belay stance with a tree to anchor to. Above you will see two bolts indicating the line on the licheny face.

Follow these up and plug what pro you can through the 7/8ish climbing aiming for the roof. This is the same 3-4 foot roof capping the wall across the face of the other hanging garden gully face climbs.

Work your way near the arete and eventually you'll see another bolt in the middle of the face just above the roof. This protects the crux. Clip and have fun puzzling it out.

Follow weaknesses in the rock more or less straight up until you end at some old rusty bolts below the massive First In Flight roof at the top.

There was a slung block towards the middle of the roof patio area we used to rap down to the gully in a single rope rap with a 70m. Take care to not rap off the ends.

I had a bit of a hard time figuring out the crux moves, moving back and forth until I had something that worked. Didn't need anything bigger than a C4 #3 and couple probably have gotten away without it. Small cams were nice in a few spots. Long route with great exposure. Nice and shady on a warm day!

Added: 2013-06-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Moores Wall: The North End

Vascular Disaster; VD Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

TR after watching someone who has it ruthless wired put it up. Slightly silly start leads into some burly jug hauling. There is a bit of a runout in the crux overhanging section but after that seemingly good gear every body length through the end. Pumpy on TR but no outrageous moves, just doesn't let up much.

Added: 2013-05-28

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