Ascent Notes for: Three Doves - 5.8 Average Rating : 4.36/5

No comment

I'm no numbers chaser, but whoever listed this as 5.8 should be taken out back ... Cruxy move after the pin on p1. Great p2. Loved it. One of my favorite gunks pitches. REPEAT - p1, much smoother lead on a cold Easter day, MArch 27, 2005. Jake and Harsh followed with ease. REPEAT - p2, with Jen (ratherbe) on April 10, 2005. Great pitch!

i agree with jer.. 2nd pitch was super sweet

Late December afternoon, sun going down. So cold that I took a whipper on p1 (10 feet on the pin) after my hands turned to insensate blocks of ice. I was about 40 feet up when I ran into a patch of handholds that were coated in a thin film of water/ice that had dripped from icicles before we lost the sun. Within minutes, my hands were almost completely useless. But I was close to the end, so I kept climbing. Around 20 feet higher I hit the crux - it was little crimpers with a big reach to the next hold. It was hard to tell if my hands were on the crimpers properly, because with no feeling in my hands, I was placing my hands completely by visually inspecting them to see if they were in the right shape and on the rock correctly, and the crimpers were high up where I couldn't see them. I spent a long time hanging on those crimpers until I knew I had them properly. Then I couldn't tell if my hands were getting tired or not (I knew I should be feeling the burn, but wasn't feeling anything). After I fell, I shoved my hands in my pits to warm them for a few minutes. The second time through the crux was no problem at all, as I was able to feel my hands enough to get my body in the right position for the next move. Trip report if you're interested: http://groups.google.com/groups?dq=&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=rec.climbing&safe=off&selm=bsl30b%24940%241%40reader2.panix.com

No comment

If this is 5.8+ I wonder what 5.10 is like! Wow, I struggled on the crux of the first pitch, and seriously considered bailing, and rapping down from the pine tree. But we rested in the shade for a bit (another hot, humid day) and talked with the party on Annie Oh! for a bit, as some cloud cover rolled in. It was a lot cooler in the shade, so I decided to give it a go. All the moves from the bottom of the tiny left-facing corner through the traverse were of sustained difficulty, but with reasonably good stances. I found myself testing out the moves and backing off to the stance a few times on each move. I thank Charlie for his patience as I worked through this route. This was certainly my most difficult lead to date. This is a great little section of the cliff, with four 3-star routes, graded 5.7 through 5.8+, all in a row.

p1 only

Free solo,superb route!

No comment

No comment