Ascent Notes for: Black and Tan - 5.10a popular Average Rating : 4.70/5

seemed tough for the grade. good gear, but difficult to place

Hadn't planned to do this one, but had read about it before and since we were in the area having just done Fantasy and rapping from the top to the Aesthetica shuts and then down to ground, decided to take a look. We'll after seeing this climb, plans changed quickly. This is probably at the upper limit of my trad leading comfort zone, but so nice had to try. Took a fall up high, last hard move in corner before easier ground. So pissed!!! #5 BD Rock held the 15 footer with ease, but welded it into place. Still there, but you will need a hammer and nut tool to retrieve.

Had done this before, but it is a great climb. Stem your way throught the crux

place your gear and make a move..

Top-roped this as a mock-lead. Pretty heady with small gear (was learning to trust gear and taking some short falls w/ a back up TR). Nice stances up to the crux about 2/3rds of the way up. Didn't finish the route due to clinic time constraints but would love to try it again, but probably on TR. A bit heady climbing over those little TCUs and such... Nice moves though!

...how much climbing this route has. Amazing. Good gear and good moves. Very fun and a good challenge for the grade.

This was my first 5.10 on gear and it was memorable. Makes you want to drink a few black & tans later on.

x

Too bad you can't get a Black and Tan in town after this climb.

..dihedral climb.