Ascent Notes for: Bacon Flake - 5.9 Average Rating : 3.75/5

My first 5.8 trad lead! As much as i'd like to say I lead a 5.9, every other source has this at 5.8. Start is the crux, you're moving off a boulder into a crack above your head while there's a 7' rocky fall below you. Luckily below the vertical crack, there's a horizontal crack that you can place pro. An anchor can be set on a nice vertical crack slightly to the right of the finish.

Hardest moves at the start.

Done as a simulated lead with a guide. There's only one move of 5.9 at the start, the rest felt 7ish. Great climb to learn on. It took tons of pro.

Hot.

and fluffy for 5.9, don't be afraid of the crappy looking flakes near the top they are solid enough.

I liked this route quite a bit. True crack, easy 5.9. Real sunny am climb. Not so impressed with its brethren, Flake and Bake, to the right. My 2nd could not get up either route, so I rapped and cleaned and made him scramble up to clean the top. Each time he rapped off the back side somewhere and walked back around. There are no fixed anchors to rap this wall on this side, that I could find.

OS

too much fun - my first 5.9 at josh. i was sandbagged, but it was awesome!

Very smeary start, but once able to get healhook on right ledge, didn't have too much difficulty getting up. Most trouble and sketch happened near the second bolt where hand holds are in very short supply and my foot confidence waned.

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