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Ascent Notes for: The Hard Way - 5.10a Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

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  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars odd

I believe that both comments below meant to warn about not blowing it clipping bolt #3. The first two bolts are just off the deck well below (and right) of #3. There is also a piton below #1. We used it to protect getting off the deck to #1.

With no disrespect to Nick or the "ground up" ethic, I felt that the bolting scheme was off. Bolt #3 seems unnecessarily run out and too far left (creating a fall zone over the boulder on the left side of the deck should a leader fall at #4). #3 would have been more desirable as a roof bolt a few feet to the right, but then no one in their right mind would tap out a roof bolt on lead with a manual drill. #5 seemed way too far left (I suppose it is there to give the arete option referred to in the description and in the Tough Schist guide book (it seemed well overgrown and contrived to me). #6 causes bad rope drag (combined with #5). The anchors are strangely placed far to the right of the jumble of rocks above #6. The climb is over at #6. IMO, the anchors ought to have been placed where #6 is and call the climb over. I suppose that people may like the anchor location since you can set up a top rope by hiking above them. If this is the case, then the whole last half of the route ought to have been out on the face going directly to the anchors.

Again, no offense intended. I just felt that decent rock climbing was lowered in quality by the bolting scheme placed on lead.

Added: 2013-07-26

  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: orangechair27 on 2009-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb!

Love the footwork of the climb...short but pumpy

Added: 2009-07-16

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gaalsent on 2008-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars harder than it looks

cryptic start and essential to clip second bolt clean. otherwise decking WILL happen on a fall. Tons of fun if you are adventurous.

Added: 2008-07-11

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