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Crimson Chrysalis - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.64/5 Average Rating : 4.64 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Rock
9
many bolts, bolted anchors, standard rack to a blue camalot.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.48/5
  Rock Quality 4.57/5
  Scenery 4.71/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Crimson Chrysalis is one of those climbs listed in the NA Classics. It is a spectacular crack system that ascends the massive pillar on the north side of Rainbow Moutain. Head up the obvious ramp to the base of the pillar. Locate the massive crack disappearing into the sky. Although only 5.8+, it is still a major undertaking. Watch the rope-eating rappels.

Beta/Updates: For those interested, although the Uriostes bolted this line more than usual due to lack of wide pro for the crack, many of the current bolts have been added for convienence.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-03-30
Views: 3997
Route ID: 14350

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: whiteflash on 2010-04-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 4th classed

Climbed with SF. We got a late start not knowing what we'd climb that day and ended up deciding Crimson looked awesome. Two parties were ahead of us and only on the lower pitches. We gave them a couple pitches head start and blasted.

We decided to simul most of the route from the go as the parties above us were going slow, so we tied in short to the rope. SF led 1-3 simul, passing the lower party on p2. I led 4 to catch the 2nd of the 1st party. SFled 5-6 with simul. I led 7-8 with simul to the top.

We decided to rap off the back of cloud tower so we wouldn't be rapping on top of the people we passed. That ended up costing me my rope, core shot on the 2nd rap over a sharp edge. Wasn't bad looking when we first did it, by the time we hit the bottom the rope was SKETCH. Will post some pics.

Added: 2010-04-21