Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews
Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide


Three Doves - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.36/5 Average Rating : 4.36 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 284
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Standard Gunks rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.86/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.09/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Start: Between On Any Monday and Annie Oh! at the right side of a big block. Pitch 1: Climb past the right side of the block and up the face, passing the first overhang on the left and the second overhang on the right. Climb the bulging face (crux) and then scramble up the the huge pine tree belay rap-station (5.8). Pitch 2: Scramble up the blocks on the right and up the face to a ledge with a small pine tree. Diagonal up left to a small left-facing corner, and up to the big overhang. Traverse right to the diagonal crack and up the crack to the top (rap bolts and chains) (5.8+). Grade is 5.8+ in some guide books, 5.9 in others.

Submitted by: interniq on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 2327
Route ID: 38585

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: interniq on 2003-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

If this is 5.8+ I wonder what 5.10 is like! Wow, I struggled on the crux of the first pitch, and seriously considered bailing, and rapping down from the pine tree. But we rested in the shade for a bit (another hot, humid day) and talked with the party on Annie Oh! for a bit, as some cloud cover rolled in. It was a lot cooler in the shade, so I decided to give it a go. All the moves from the bottom of the tiny left-facing corner through the traverse were of sustained difficulty, but with reasonably good stances. I found myself testing out the moves and backing off to the stance a few times on each move. I thank Charlie for his patience as I worked through this route. This was certainly my most difficult lead to date. This is a great little section of the cliff, with four 3-star routes, graded 5.7 through 5.8+, all in a row.

Witnessed by: Charlie
Added: 2003-07-25