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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
This was our first grade 4 or 5 climb and it was amazing, but kicked our butts. I wasn't used to climbing with a pack on, and so got pretty tired. We did it in about 12-13 pitches, simul climbing some of the end pitches. We started at 7:00am and didn't get off until 8:00pm, and for some reason it took us longer to climb the upper pitches than the chimneys. We were lucky to have a guide climbing behind us who graciously let us follow him down the descent. Without him, we would have surely had to bivy and probably would have gone insane from dehydration (apparently 4 liters of water was not enough). Took us 2 1/2 hours to descend.......
Added: 2006-04-13
