Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Awesome day of climbing
I loved this climb, it's every thing a grade IV 5.9 should be. I followed every pitch and carried the pack because my shoes blew out on the first pitch and I didn't want to be leading that close to my limit on leather.
We did it in 12 hours car to car without simulclimbing until we got to the top of pitch 9 or 10 (which ever is the last 5.9 pitch) for the anchors, since they are all 2 bolt belay anchors, we took a double length sling and set it up for a sliding X with limiting knots, and then clipped a carabiner at each end for the bolts. When we got to the anchor, the leader would clip the sling to the bolts, clove hitch in, go off belay, clip his belay device to the anchor, pull up the rope, put the second on belay, and we were ready to go. We had 2 slings set up like that, so the second would bring the other one up, give it to the leader and we would save time off of building anchors.
the last couple of pitches didn't have hangers on the bolts, but since you'll have nuts with you, it's not a huge deal to sling them.
We did it in 12 hours car to car without simulclimbing until we got to the top of pitch 9 or 10 (which ever is the last 5.9 pitch) for the anchors, since they are all 2 bolt belay anchors, we took a double length sling and set it up for a sliding X with limiting knots, and then clipped a carabiner at each end for the bolts. When we got to the anchor, the leader would clip the sling to the bolts, clove hitch in, go off belay, clip his belay device to the anchor, pull up the rope, put the second on belay, and we were ready to go. We had 2 slings set up like that, so the second would bring the other one up, give it to the leader and we would save time off of building anchors.
the last couple of pitches didn't have hangers on the bolts, but since you'll have nuts with you, it's not a huge deal to sling them.
Added: 2007-01-06
