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Jimmy Dean - 5.10a

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Cams and wireds.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 1.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 2.50/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

On the right side of the Grunt Chamber is an overhanging chimney/flair. It is quite short and I never thought it deserved its 5.10 rating. You decide. The name comes from the sausage, which it apparently turned the first ascent party into. I thought Kilo Crack was the harder of the two, but I had Kilo Crack ruthlessly wired. Go climb them. They are fun! F.A. Duane Raleigh, Rick Thomas (1980)

Submitted by: drubt on 2005-03-06
Views: 619
Route ID: 32828

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leinosaur on 2007-03-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars I'm with drub on this one

Not sure where the 10a came from on this one - it has a fun, if too short, jamming section. I guess the chimney could be 10a or more if you chose to ignore every other feature in the area, like the other crack/seam system running parallel to the wide one, just inches away; could provide good OW/tight squeeze practice w/ easy opportunity for bailing, I guess, except it leans back right away. Still, I'm happy to have done it, no "mini-epic" or anything. Belay at top was easy, could have been purely "positional", i.e. friction and being wedged in would have been plenty, but I went ahead and anchored in a bit just to be sure.

Added: 2007-03-13