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Rock
draws, stoppers, tricams, cams to 3 inches. You don't need a big rack.
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Description:
Weird corkscrew summit. A very fun climb that is not too hard with a few good moves that are 10+, but mostly 5.9.Pitch 1 - Easy 5.4 mud leads to a big ledge. Clip a 4 bolt ladder to a belay. If freeing this at 5.10, you may want to break it into two pitches for rope drag.
Pitch 2 - A great 5.8 chimney. Takes good gear.
Pitch 3 - Climb 5.7 to an exposed stance. Clip a 3 bolt ladder, or free it at 5.10
Pitch 4 - The good one. Traverse out the spooky sidewalk and mantle onto the "Diving Board". Clip 4 bolts and drilled pins on the 5.9 corkscrew.
WARNING: The very top block (not what the anchors are around) is starting to get pretty loose
Descent: Lower to the diving board, and reverse the sidewalk. Two single rope raps lead to the top of pitch 1, and then a double rope rap to the deck. Absolutely classic.
Submitted by: j_from_the_307 on 2004-05-03
Views: 5237
Route ID: 460
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 A0 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: dyingdream on 2007-03-24
(View Climbing Log)
Simply amazing
A lot easier then I thought it would be. Even the aid moves I think could have been freed in the mid tens max, but I was trying to stay ahead of the weather so yarded on the bolts. You don't need much gear at all, long second pitch is really quite easy and secure.
Added: 2007-03-31