Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews
Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide


Space Cadet - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Small to medium gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Climb thin crack (5.9) to small belay ledge. Continue past face and cracks to the top. This climb can be lead as one pitch with a 200' rope and proper runnering. There's a two bolt chain anchor at the top that has been recently installed. I believe you may need two 165' ropes to descend. Otherwise walk off. Mega Classic!

Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2002-08-07
Views: 1042
Route ID: 21707

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
Second Second ascent by: aerili on 2007-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Don't be a space cadet when you lead this!

If you do it in two pitches (recommended on a windy day): 5.9 rating for the start is a joke--even for 5.10 leaders. Even *I* couldn't get my tiny fingertips in the seam at times. P2 - holy dangerous runout, Batman! I seconded this clean, but a lead fall would be serious. You are face climbing polished slab that is quite steep at times with one manky bolt to protect a loooong way at this grade. The McDowells are just telling you, "You're my bitch and don't forget it."

Added: 2007-04-24