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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | R |
Onsight ascent by: leinosaur on 2007-05-17
(View Climbing Log)
will come back with knee pads
bailed after three pitches, due in part to a stuck backup knot on the self-belay - probably could have rapped, un-stuck, and climbed again with no prob, but I wasn't feelin' it. My original plan was to bail to give my two partners a quicker shot at it, but then they pointed out that they'd be left with no retreat - and decided to bail with me. We had a good time later on Wholesome Fullback, after a pretty crappy bushwhack around the way.
Added: 2007-06-15