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Rock
10
Stoppers, gear to 6".
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Description:
A superb route that follows a challenging line up the main face of Frigid Air Buttress. Start at the base of a large flake on the left side of the buttress. Pitch 1: Climb the right side of the flake to three bolts. From there, climb straight up for about 10-15 feet until it eases up, then traverse left to a belay stance. (5.7) Pitch 2: Climb the cracks above and left of belay. Follow the ledge left to the corner. Climb the corner, then step left onto the face, following it or the corner to the top. Belay here. Pitch 3: Climb up and left, then up again and belay at the base of the large chimney. 5.4 Pitch 4: Climb the large chimney to its top, then move left, climb the face to a ledge and belay. 5.5 Pitch 5: Climb the handcrack to the top. Then continue up the offwidth or step right and ascend the crack/face. Belay at the base of the chimney 5.9 Pitch 6: From here, ascend the chimney, then exit left via a hand traverse. Climb up to a ledge, then climb up the next chimney, this time stem out of the chimney and ascend the face (no pro) or if you're insanely skinny, climb the inside of the chimney. From here, climb up another chimney and belay at the large tree. 5.8 Pitch 7: Climb a corner, then wander up and right on the ledge system to the base of the final headwall 5.5 Pitch 8: Climb the final headwall via the obvious (and only) crack in its face. Once atop the ledge, continue up the face for about 10 feet to the summit. Belay from here. 5.9+ Descent: Wander south/southeast from here. There's a rappel station on your left as you descend. One rope gets you down. From here wander up and left, then work your way to the large pinetree to the south. Rappel off of this tree to a ledge on your left. A static line and a bolt is the next rappel station. A 150' rappel gets you to a large, sloping ledge. To your right is another rappel station. From here 180' gets you to the top of 3rd and 4th class terrain or use an intermediate station to rappel to the floor. From here, continue down the wash until you hit the main wash and then cruise back to your packs.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2003-10-06
Views: 2589
Route ID: 16505
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Less frigid than I expected
A superb line but a rather crappy descent that is difficult to find at first. Oh, well. Still 100% worthwhile for the quality climbing, lack of human competition, and totally short and easy approach. Pro is only necessary up to a #4, and that is to protect the roof on p5; the p4 OW only needs doubles on #2-3. I felt the OW was 5.9, not 5.8. It is actually far more sustained than 9+ finger crack crux later. The p3 chimney is probably the most awesome chimney I have ever climbed!!! Note to God: make more chimneys like that, preferably close to my house. There is virtually not a bad pitch on this route!
Added: 2007-12-10
