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2
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Description:
A Sugarloaf classic. Some parties only climb the 1st pitch, fun 5.8 flakes. P2 has a 5.9 offwidth section that's well worth the effort.
Submitted by: davidji on 2003-08-09
Views: 2496
Route ID: 39064
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
1st pitch awesome, 2nd pitch turns to scramble
I led the route yesterday. The 1st pitch is very, very good. The 2nd pitch has a difficult offwidth on first appearance. It just takes some close study of how to send through it, but once you figure it out, you'll realize it's not that tough. Just place a large cam up high for protection. After the 2nd pitch crux, it turns into a 3rd class scramble...no belay bolts but a nice ledge to build a natural anchor (sling a pointy rock). Don't scramble up too high or you'll create too much rope drag when belaying your partner. After that, scramble to the top and navigate down the back side. I'm sure you can probably search out some rappel bolts somewhere but we didn't try. We had one full rack between me and my partner. I used the full range of cams/nuts from .5 to 3.5.
Added: 2008-02-18
