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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Epinephrine
Short day in February, but worked out great avoiding anyone else on the route. I led the odd pitches, gave me the 1st and 3rd 5.9 chimney pitches....I do good in chimneys so thought they were slightly exaggerated, but definitly fun. We rigged a haul bag for our shoes, etc. All worked out well hauling the pig through the chimney. The wind was brutal on the upper face pitches. I got the 80' 5.9 above the elephant trunk, real fun and steep, but again, little soft for the rating I thought, more 5.8ish. The roof move above was not 5.9 either. We un roped at the top of the 11th pitch. Snow and ice chocked full the narrow foot ledge at the end towards the large tree. That was interesting. Another, grand day at Red Rocks with Zach.
Added: 2008-03-06
