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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Epinephrine
My 2nd time up in 2008. With Bobby from NY. Good times, went really smooth. Little more daylight to work with than back in February, still a tad chilly though. Guess I took the same leads I had last time, 1st and 3rd of the harder chimney pitches and the 1st 5.9 face pitch along with all the other which is easy stuff. Both times my partners got a little off route on pitch 3 of the climb, the 5.6 chimney pitch. One stayed in the chimney too long, the other went out to early. Interesting. I need to lead that next time I guess.
Added: 2008-05-01
