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Rock
10
Stoppers, gear to 6".
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Description:
A superb route that follows a challenging line up the main face of Frigid Air Buttress. Start at the base of a large flake on the left side of the buttress. Pitch 1: Climb the right side of the flake to three bolts. From there, climb straight up for about 10-15 feet until it eases up, then traverse left to a belay stance. (5.7) Pitch 2: Climb the cracks above and left of belay. Follow the ledge left to the corner. Climb the corner, then step left onto the face, following it or the corner to the top. Belay here. Pitch 3: Climb up and left, then up again and belay at the base of the large chimney. 5.4 Pitch 4: Climb the large chimney to its top, then move left, climb the face to a ledge and belay. 5.5 Pitch 5: Climb the handcrack to the top. Then continue up the offwidth or step right and ascend the crack/face. Belay at the base of the chimney 5.9 Pitch 6: From here, ascend the chimney, then exit left via a hand traverse. Climb up to a ledge, then climb up the next chimney, this time stem out of the chimney and ascend the face (no pro) or if you're insanely skinny, climb the inside of the chimney. From here, climb up another chimney and belay at the large tree. 5.8 Pitch 7: Climb a corner, then wander up and right on the ledge system to the base of the final headwall 5.5 Pitch 8: Climb the final headwall via the obvious (and only) crack in its face. Once atop the ledge, continue up the face for about 10 feet to the summit. Belay from here. 5.9+ Descent: Wander south/southeast from here. There's a rappel station on your left as you descend. One rope gets you down. From here wander up and left, then work your way to the large pinetree to the south. Rappel off of this tree to a ledge on your left. A static line and a bolt is the next rappel station. A 150' rappel gets you to a large, sloping ledge. To your right is another rappel station. From here 180' gets you to the top of 3rd and 4th class terrain or use an intermediate station to rappel to the floor. From here, continue down the wash until you hit the main wash and then cruise back to your packs.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2003-10-06
Views: 2589
Route ID: 16505
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Frigid Air Buttress
Start of an 8 day climbing odyssey from Zion to Red Rocks. With Bobby from New York. It was alright, not a huge recommendation. I pulled the off width 5.9 and he got the 5.9 finger crack. Both fun and challenging pitches. Windy as hell in the park, but this route is very well protected from the wind. Weird lone bolt below the off width move. Only bolt on a completely free route (not bolted stations). Someone must have bailed with a bolt kit I guess, does you no good and the crux is well protected with gear. My first trip back in Icebox, but came back the following week and knocked off all of the Necromancer routes, Sensuous Mortician being one of my favorite true trad pitches in the park.
Added: 2008-05-01
