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Hot Flash - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
10
rack to 4"
1200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

Hot Flash is an amazing route that ascends the center of the left hand of two prominent pillars at the right end of the Slabs. Start in an obvious gully on a right facing flake/corner system with a pair of small roofs about 200' up. Climb through the first roof, then move left to avoid the second. From there, head up and slightly left, staying roughly in the center of the buttress for several pitches (avoid the dihedrals left and right), then when the choice presents itself, ascend the arete into another crack system to the summit.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the left, then down the lady luck/sunset slabs descent.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-10-29
Views: 1285
Route ID: 96751

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sherrilewis on 2008-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Do it!

This route was great fun all the way, offering up a satisfying mix of crack, slab and face, well-protected pitches and heady runouts, cruisy simul-climbing opportunities near the top and exciting exposure and scenery. Take your camera. And dress warmly for the all-day shade.

I led p2(5.8) and p5(5.7) and felt the grades to be comfortably challenging(this was my first 5.8 trad lead in RR).

We did all ten pitches rather than rapping after p6, as the missing hangers at the top of p3 left us little choice but to continue on(though the other rap/belay stations were intact as of this writing).

We did the descent in the dark, which added an element of adventure; I don't think we did the "standard" descent referred to for this route, but with a little sleuthing we eventually found a connecting line of rap slings and downclimb/traversing that got us to the level of the belay ledge of the Romper Room area. We were VERY thankful that we decided against carrying in our packs--it would have been a bummer to have had to hike back to the base in the dark to find them. Go light on this one and you'll be glad you did.

Added: 2008-11-20