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J.J., Jane Maurer, 2004
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
1
UPDATE: Apparently this decent trad lead has now been fully bolted. Sad. Not like there weren't already enough fully bolted moderates in the area.Clip bolts OR....1 bolt 2/3rds of the way up and mostly smaller cams. You might want something bigger like a
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Description:
Climb up the slabby dihedral left of "Hey There Fancy Pants." Follow up to a single bolt and come to a ledge below a roof. The anchor bolts are on the face of the roof with a ring dangling out in space to serve as your target. You might want to bring a whisk broom as it was quite sandy, especially at the ledge before the anchors. Maybe this will improve in time. Like many routes in this area, circa 11/08 there was a tag glued to the wall and engraved with the route name at the start. (Note: Details such as first ascent and length from Ray Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide!)Descent Options:
Bolted anchors and a rap ring on a cable loop. Rap off the ring in the cable loop (check this or add a sacrificial carabiner for redundancy) or use the anchor bolts in some manner. Not sure if they are rap bolts however!
Submitted by: mjwestla on 2009-03-09
Last Modified: 2012-07-31
Views: 1959
Route ID: 97240
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Kinda fun
This is a nice soft 8. Definitely easier than some of the other 5.8s in the area (it is listed as a 5.8- in the area guidebook). The harder part is at the top. The bolt comes along just where you need it. Mostly small gear except for a big piece near the top to protect your anchor clipping. I ended up trending left under the roof and then had to traverse across the big ledge to get up under the anchors. Manage your slings accordingly or potentially suffer the weird mess of tangles that I did on descent.
Added: 2008-12-01
