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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
It's a classic.
This is one of the better lines I've done. Did it in 9 hours car to car and I think 10 pitches (we unroped for the 5th class ramp and scrambling). Luckily I got to lead every pitch. We did the chimney section in 4 pitches and did the outside crack variation on chimney pitch 3 (I needed the rest). The climbing above went super fast and was excellent quality face climbing on amazing incut varnished holds. The descent was much easier then expected but would be difficult in the dark. Overall a great experience. The rack included a single set of nuts, green and yellow aliens, and doubles in cams from .5 to 3 (camalot) with one #4. Anything bigger would have gotten in the way. Highly recommended!
Added: 2009-03-23
