Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
Standard rack with extra small pieces (+ one bolt up high)
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Start to the left of the Ragged Edges block. You will see a large right leaning crack just above a big arc. This is your route. Thrilling!
Submitted by: holdplease2 on 2004-07-29
Views: 1201
Route ID: 18578
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Top Rope ascent by:
Kinda scary on TR
One of our group led Tonto and then set this as a TR. It was a fun and somewhat challenging climb even so, but also a bit tense. In some sense it's a lot of exposure for a top rope.
First it might help to explain what the route looks like - like it says in the description it's a big arc over a crack. I'd say more like a big curved shield of arched rock that slid off the mountain and left a 4 foot gap behind so that if you fall you stand a good chance of a pendulum swing that takes you over the edge and bouncing down onto the lower section. The protection/gear we set for directionals and to help offset this swing weren't quite enough to completely protect, so it is possible to get hurt a bit if you blow it. Plus the sections where you might pop off depend on good footwork on the potentially dodgy sandstone. I think I was a bit more frazzled than normal given how many tiny sandstone nubbins I'd busted off in the area already.
That said, it was indeed a thrilling climb. Probably a pretty heady and thin lead too!
First it might help to explain what the route looks like - like it says in the description it's a big arc over a crack. I'd say more like a big curved shield of arched rock that slid off the mountain and left a 4 foot gap behind so that if you fall you stand a good chance of a pendulum swing that takes you over the edge and bouncing down onto the lower section. The protection/gear we set for directionals and to help offset this swing weren't quite enough to completely protect, so it is possible to get hurt a bit if you blow it. Plus the sections where you might pop off depend on good footwork on the potentially dodgy sandstone. I think I was a bit more frazzled than normal given how many tiny sandstone nubbins I'd busted off in the area already.
That said, it was indeed a thrilling climb. Probably a pretty heady and thin lead too!
Added: 2009-03-26
